Rising sharply within the Purcell Mountains, Pigeon Spire offers a climb that is as much a test of nerve as it is of technique. The Cooper-Kor route winds its way through 18 pitches of sustained alpine trad climbing, threading cracks and ledges that demand steady hands and sharp eyes. From the first moves on the East Face’s sharp flakes to the exposed traverses above multi-hundred-foot drop-offs, this route carries you through a vertical landscape shaped by time and wind-sculpted stone. The air here is thin and crisp, carrying the faint call of distant mountain birds while the granite under your fingertips tells the story of ancient earth pressing skyward.

Your adventure begins near the left side of the East Face, where a right-angling crack system invites your fingers into its embrace. This first pitch opens with moderate climbing, warming the muscles for the bolder challenges ahead. Soon you cross ledges that feel wide open to the alpine sky, the granite holding steady but the exposure growing. A memorable traverse on pitch seven demands careful foot placement and nerves of steel as you cross 100 feet with minimal protection—here the mountain dares you to move with purpose and trust.

Progressing higher, the rock shifts in character: wetter cracks that test your grip and slab sections requiring delicate balance and calculated moves. The anchor points, some relics from earlier ascents, suggest the mountain’s quiet aging, urging climbers to be vigilant and perhaps ready to build their own secure stations. The crux section presents itself in pitch nine—a technical dihedral where the route tightens demanding powerful free climbing at 5.10+, or smart aid techniques if you choose to ease the difficulty.

Beyond this, the terrain opens yet remains challenging, with lichened ridges and loose corners reminding climbers that alpine environments carry their own risks. The final approach to the summit ridge exposes climbers to sweeping views where jagged silhouettes stretch across the horizon. From this vantage point, the sheer drop-offs on the south face give a sharp sense of accomplishment, a reminder of the route’s commitment and the mountain’s immutable presence.

This climb is not for the faint-hearted or those seeking straightforward ascents. The mix of secure cracks, tenuous traverses, and variable protection makes it a demanding alpine undertaking. Climbers should bring a standard rack with cams from small to large (#.5 to 3.5 inches), plenty of nuts for flaring cracks, and be prepared for long days moving steadily through changing terrain. Weather can turn quickly at these altitudes, so timing and hydration are essential, alongside sturdy footwear that can handle both rock and scree. Expect to spend a full day climbing, with approach and descent adding to the adventure.

Pigeon Spire and the Bugaboos region offer a rugged backdrop that is both beautiful and uncompromising. High alpine meadows blossom in summer’s warmth below, while granite cliffs loom above, shaped by glaciers and time. Cooper-Kor stands out for its mix of solid, enjoyable climbing and serious exposure, offering climbers a taste of classic alpine trad in one of British Columbia’s most iconic ranges. This route invites you to engage fully—not just with your climbing skills, but with the mountain itself—testing your judgment and rewarding persistence with unforgettable views and the quiet satisfaction of a climb well earned.