Rising sharply from the Purcell Mountains, the East Face of Bugaboo Spire commands respect with its sheer granite edges and challenging terrain. The Cooper-Gran route is arguably the most accessible line on this imposing face, mixing traditional climbing techniques with aid moves and alpine exposure. For those drawn to the high-stakes realm of alpine trad climbing, this route presents a compelling adventure—offering more than just vertical gain. Here, the mountain isn’t simply a backdrop; it’s an active partner pushing the limits of skill and endurance.

Starting at Applebee Camp, the approach bends through crisp mountain air and rugged forest paths before giving way to the rocky expanse below the spire. The initial pitches demand careful route-finding and steady hands—P1 veers left along a ramp rather than straight up, negotiating fragile protection and precarious edges. The sense of isolation heightens as you ascend, with few previous parties leaving behind faint traces in this rarely traveled corridor. Each move requires attention, especially where ropes might run over slick edges that could fray lines.

The second pitch introduces the first real test: a sustained 5.10+ right-facing dihedral that leads into a traverse onto a blocky, somewhat unstable corner. Marginal protection here underscores the need to manage risk and trust your gear. High on this pitch, climbers reach a grassy balcony for a stable belay and a breath to drink in the expanding view of the surrounding peaks.

Between the technical climbs, a lengthy fourth-class traverse skirts the balcony, a reminder that alpine climbing is as much about navigation and endurance as it is about vertical prowess. The pitches that follow blend chimney work and corners with occasional loose rock, emphasizing vigilance and deliberate movement. Pitch five's chimney roof, rated 5.10, warns novices to proceed with caution—it’s a passage that demands both strength and refined technique.

Midway, the route intersects with a bolt ladder—a relic from the 1960s, featuring unconventional bolts that merge pitons and drilled holes. This section leans into aid climbing, where the gear placement and body positioning are critical. Coming off this ladder, climbers face one of the most sustained challenges of the route: an 80-meter crux consisting of left-facing dihedrals with sustained stemming at 5.10+ difficulty. This "money pitch" demands endurance, precise footwork, and confident movement. It’s the defining moment where the face tests your commitment to the climb.

Protection on the route calls for a full double rack with special attention to the offwidth pitches where multiple Camalot #4s come into play. These larger protections are indispensable for safely navigating the wider cracks, and the lack of #5 sizes means choosing placements thoughtfully. Climbers need to bring long slings to prevent rope drag and protect against sharp edges that could damage gear or cordage.

The summit approach is a combination of simul-climbing and careful scrambling, culminating in a reward beyond the physical challenge: panoramic views across the Purcells and beyond, spreading out like an invitation to future explorations. The descent is equally involved, requiring rappels and deliberate route-finding back to the base camp.

This climb demands solid alpine skills, mental focus, and preparation for variable conditions. Weather changes quickly at this elevation, and loose rock occasionally complicates protection placement. For climbers equipped with experience and patience, Cooper-Gran offers a unique experience on one of British Columbia’s iconic granite giants. It rewards both the calculated planner and the driven adventurer with a journey that tests every element of alpine rock climbing.