"Como Diablos offers a crisp 60-foot trad experience along Lower Mural’s rugged walls in Woodfords Canyon. Featuring a challenging shallow hand crack crux and bolted anchors, this route strikes a fine balance between technical skill and practical protection."
Carving its line up a striking wall in Lower Mural, Como Diablos offers climbers a concentrated taste of traditional climbing with a touch of sport aid along the way. Situated just off the Carson Pass Highway in California’s Woodfords Canyon, this 60-foot route demands both precise footwork and controlled patience. The climb begins with a pair of clean cracks that guide you steadily to a narrow ledge, setting the stage for a sequence that tests your ability to read the rock and gear placements carefully. From this point, the line veers into a zigzagging ascent past three well-placed bolts, providing momentary security as the wall leans forward slightly.
The heart of the climb centers on a shallow but demanding hand crack—a crux that pushes you to commit and find balance in tight, careful moves. It’s not just about strength here; technique and mental focus are key to threading this section. The crack's subtle features invite you to engage with the rock intimately, feeling its texture shift beneath your fingers. Once through the crux, the climb relaxes slightly as you step toward the final two-bolt anchor, offering a sensible finish and the chance to take a breath while looking back over the canyon’s rugged landscape.
Gear choices play a big role in your success on Como Diablos: bring a standard trad rack from .3 to 2 inches to cover the crack protections, supplemented by confidence in clipping quickdraws on the three bolts that protect the harder moves. The location's proximity to Lake Tahoe means the air often smells of pine and sage, and depending on the time of year, morning sun warms the wall, making it an ideal early-season objective.
Approach walks are straightforward, weaving through forested stretches with a gradual incline that maintains your energy for the climb. At just one pitch and a moderate grade of 5.9, Como Diablos strikes a balance—it’s accessible for climbers looking to sharpen trad skills without committing to a long multi-pitch, yet it still retains enough technical challenge to keep enthusiasm high.
This route suits those eager to experience the tactile nature of traditional protection while enjoying the safety net of bolts at critical junctures. Whether you’re stepping up from sport climbing or enhancing a growing trad resume, Como Diablos rewards focus, preparation, and a steady approach with a climb that feels both measured and adventurous. Be mindful of rock conditions after rainfall, as the crack tends to hold moisture longer, and approach the area with respect for local conservation guidelines to preserve the climb’s quality for seasons ahead.
The rock is generally solid but can retain moisture in the crack after rain, making hand jams slippery and less secure. Use extra care clipping bolts and placing pro; the ledge at mid-height is narrow, so avoid lingering too long in exposed spots.
Approach trail is moderate and well-marked; allow 20-30 minutes from parking.
Check rock dryness before starting, especially after recent rain due to moisture retention in cracks.
Morning climbs offer warmer wall temperatures and less direct sun exposure.
Carry a light rack—overloading can hinder delicate foot moves on the crux.
Bring a standard trad rack ranging from .3 to 2 inch cams, plus quickdraws for the three bolts protecting the crux and anchors. The fixed anchors are two-bolt setups that provide a secure finish.
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