"Colossus demands respect with its towering south face and a blend of technical trad and aid climbing. Offering three pitches through challenging crack systems and bold aid moves, this desert giant rewards preparation and steady nerves with spectacular summit views."
Rising dramatically from the arid landscape of Mee Canyon, Colossus towers with undeniable presence, drawing climbers into its formidable south face that stretches over 400 feet. This colossal formation offers a rugged challenge across three pitches of trad and aid climbing that demand both finesse and grit. The ascent begins on the north side, in the shadow of a notch that separates the tower from the canyon rim, inviting a cool, shaded start before the sun claims the south face. The first pitch leads you through a thin corner where bushes cling to the rock, ending on a ledge set deep inside a massive cave-like chimney. It’s a subtle reminder from the canyon—nature’s resilience is woven into its very cracks.
On pitch two, the route shifts to the far right edge of the ledge, climbing through a pod before linking up with a clean crack that beckons upward. After about fifty feet, the line angles right, following a streaking crack that gradually softens and becomes less solid near the pitch’s culmination. This transition demands attentive footwork and patience, as loose rock tests your commitment.
The third pitch escalates to a bolder experience, with aid climbing around precarious blocks and beneath a large roof that guards the summit. Navigating right at a second significant roof, climbers must stay deliberate as the terrain relaxes only upon reaching the summit—an extraordinary vantage point that rewards every ounce of effort with panoramic views of the Grand Junction Area's wild heritage.
Colossus is a desert tower that asks climbers to respect its ruggedness and unpredictability. Its rock quality varies, so prepare for sections where protection placements require careful judgment, particularly on the final pitch’s aid moves. Descend by slinging boulders and downclimbing carefully, as the retreat involves managing exposure and loose rock.
Accessible via a short approach from the canyon rim, climbers should gear up with a standard desert rack spanning a range of cams and nuts, ensuring adequate protection for the route’s varied crack widths. The quiet of the canyon, punctuated only by shifting dry breezes and the occasional call of distant wildlife, creates a focused atmosphere—the kind where every move feels vital, and the climb becomes an exercise in balance between nature’s ruggedness and human determination.
Timing is key: mornings provide cooler conditions on the shaded north face start, while the south face warms later in the day. Visit in spring or fall to avoid the harsh desert heat and to experience the climb in its most comfortable extremes. Plan your water carefully, and wear sturdy shoes that can handle sharp edges and variable rock texture. Colossus challenges with its length, complexity, and bold sections, rewarding those who come prepared with an unforgettable desert ascent.
Loose blocks on pitch three demand extra caution—test every placement and move carefully around roofs. The descent via slung boulders requires secure anchors and a steady head due to exposure and unstable rock.
Start early to take advantage of morning shade on the north-facing approach.
Bring extra webbing or slings for building anchors on slung boulders during descent.
Check wind conditions; breezes can cool down the climb but also shift loose debris.
Pack plenty of water—a dry exposure with limited shade awaits above the rim.
A standard desert rack with a wide selection of cams and nuts works well here. Crack sizes vary significantly, and aid gear is essential for the final pitch’s tricky roof sections and loose blocks.
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