"Collins Donn is a demanding alpine trad climb on Hallett Peak’s north face, combining technical cracks and challenging face climbing across six pitches. This route pushes you through loose scree, wet dihedrals, and exposed ledges for a true Rocky Mountain test piece."
Collins Donn carves its path up the north face of Hallett Peak’s third buttress, delivering a rugged alpine trad climb that challenges both your route-finding and technical skills. This six-pitch journey unfolds over 870 feet, mixing solid hand cracks, delicate face moves, and exposure that keeps every section engaging. From the start, you leave behind the crowded second buttress trail, crossing unstable scree and dodging scattered rockfall. The approach already sets the tone: wild and unpredictable. Your route weaves upward toward a small, detached tower sitting just below the saddle, the climb’s highest point.
Early on, the large left-facing dihedral shows signs of moisture, often dripping and slick, nudging most climbers to focus instead on an obvious hand crack 40 feet to its right that stretches through a bulge and disappears overhead. This crack belts you into the heart of the climb—gear up carefully here with a rack ranging from small micro cams to 3-inch sizes to protect tricky sections and roof transitions.
Pitch one begins with a jug-friendly 5.8 hand crack that busts through a bulge, setting you on ledges spacious enough to rearrange your gear and catch your breath. The next pitch veers left, negotiating a mix of 4th and 5th class scrambling across a slab dotted with knobs and crimps. These moves reward steady feet and a keen eye, even if the climbing feels somewhat moderate. Pitch three turns up the crux—a stout 5.9R move weaving finely between solid seams and subtle cracks with sparse pro placements, demanding respectful patience and clean footwork.
Pitch four drops you into a tight dihedral that runs through an imposing roof, the “grandmother’s house” section, as some call it. This sequence blends technical crack climbing with delicate face moves, pushing the rhythm without overextending. On pitch five, you have choices—snake left around the tower and cross the notch, or elect the direct but sparse and runout line up the gendarmed tower to a belay below a striking left-facing dihedral.
The final push, pitch six, leads you up a splitter finger crack to a conclusion reminiscent of desert sandstone routes, with the crux veering left around a fixed nut. The top-out offers expansive views across RMNP’s rugged alpine landscape—rock faces catching the afternoon light and pockets of lingering snow mingling with spruce and fir-lined ridges.
Descending demands equal vigilance: two rappels from slings at the summit drop you to a gully that snakes down into a maze of ledges. From there, a careful 4th-class escape leads to the base of the climb, where a final rappel returns you safely to your pack. While the terrain invites exploration, the loose rock and shifting scree warn against rushed movements and careless footing.
This route isn’t for those seeking a stake on pristine alpine sport lines. Collins Donn asks for commitment, steady nerves, and a solid rack of protection. But for trad climbers wanting to test themselves in the heart of Rocky Mountain National Park’s high country, it offers a raw, rewarding adventure bathed in mountain atmosphere and genuine alpine exposure.
Loose scree and rockfall near the base require caution on approach, especially after rain or thaw. The wet dihedral stays slick through much of the season—avoid it to prevent dangerous slips. Rappels demand careful snag-checking for reliable slings, and the descent involves complex route-finding along exposed fourth-class ledges.
Approach via the trail to the second buttress, then head under the crowd and scramble up scree carefully past loose rockfall.
Keep a close eye for the damp, left-facing dihedral near the base but prefer the dry, visible hand crack located 40 feet to the right to start climbing.
Bring a wide rack including micro cams and nuts, focusing on smaller pro for the roof section and larger pieces for the crack systems.
Plan two rappels from the summit with doubles of your key gear, and be prepared for a careful downclimb covering fourth-class ledges back to the trail.
Protection ranges from small micro cams up to 3-inch sizes, with an emphasis on nuts and cams to safeguard the tricky bulges and roof sections. Expect minimal fixed gear; rely on solid trad placements throughout.
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