"Camel Jockey offers a compact, quality climbing experience in Wyoming’s Sinks Canyon. With classic moderate routes and steeper sport lines bathed in morning sun, it’s a great stop for climbers seeking focused challenges amid sweeping mountain views."
Camel Jockey stands out as a compact but compelling climbing destination tucked into Wyoming's Sinks Canyon near Lander. This smaller wall features a defining central dihedral and offers varied climbs that attract climbers looking for quality lines without the overwhelming scale of larger nearby crags. Most notably, More Funky Than Gunky (5.9) provides an engaging moderate challenge, while steeper routes like Camel Jockey (5.13b) push the limits for seasoned climbers.
The wall’s proximity to iconic neighboring climbs such as the Killer Cave and routes including Elmo’s Fish means you can easily weave together a day of diverse climbing experiences. The approach is straightforward—Camel Jockey is about 50 meters to the left of the last routes on Killer Cave. Traveling right from Addiction, climbers pass White Heat Wall and Briskets before arriving at this focused sector. This means access is quick, allowing for more time on the rock.
One of the area’s features is the wall’s sun and shade pattern. Camel Jockey faces east, earning morning sun that lights up the rock with warmth and clarity. As the day advances, the dihedral begins to fall into shade, offering cooler temperatures—a natural comfort for afternoon ascents during warm months. The prime climbing season aligns well with this pattern, typically spanning spring through fall, when Wyoming’s weather favors dry, stable conditions essential for safe climbing.
The rock here offers a mix of technical face and dihedral climbing, appealing to a broad range of styles. While the grades extend from moderate 5.8 routes like Put Down Your Ducky to challenging sport climbs like Steel Rain (5.12b) and the distinctive Camel Jockey (5.13b), the vibe remains accessible and rewarding. Classic climbs such as Child's Play (5.10c) and Red Light Love (5.11c) prime the wall for those wanting to test their skills on steadily harder pitches.
The intimacy of the setting provides a quiet alternative to busier walls, allowing climbers to savor the crisp mountain air and sweeping views of Wyoming’s rugged landscape. The rock’s texture and features feel reliable, but climbers should prepare for varied terrain, with some routes demanding sharp footwork and confident crack skills.
Gear-wise, traditional sport climbing racks with a focus on quickdraws for bolted lines will serve best. Protective hardware for anchors and a solid rope setup are essential, as standard single-pitch climbs dominate the area. The approach trail is clear but uneven in spots, so sturdy footwear with good traction is advised. Water and weather gear should reflect the altitude and shifting mountain conditions common here.
In short, Camel Jockey presents an excellent blend of challenges and charm—ideal for climbers looking to immerse themselves in a Wyoming crag that rewards effort with quality routes and a genuine mountain atmosphere. Whether you’re sharpening your technique on More Funky Than Gunky or chasing benchmarks like the imposing Camel Jockey route, the experience here balances adventure perfectly with pragmatic climbing enjoyment.
While rock quality is generally solid, be cautious of loose debris near the base, and approach carefully on uneven trail sections. The wall’s shady afternoon spot can cool quickly, so bring layers to avoid chill after exposure to sun.
Camel Jockey wall receives strong morning sun, making early hours ideal to warm up.
Approach the wall from Addiction route, passing White Heat Wall and Briskets on your right.
Afternoon climbs in the dihedral are cooler as the sun moves around the corner.
Pay attention to weather changes; mountain conditions can shift quickly in Sinks Canyon.
Climbers will want a typical sport rack with quickdraws for the bolted routes. Single pitch climbs dominate, making rope and anchor setup straightforward. The approach trail is short but uneven, so wear sturdy shoes.
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