Climbing Camel Jockey Wall in Wyoming's Sinks Canyon

Lander, Wyoming
sport climbing
single pitch
dihedral
morning sun
moderate routes
Wyoming
Sinks Canyon
Length: 50 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
Sinks Canyon State Park
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Camel Jockey offers a compact, quality climbing experience in Wyoming’s Sinks Canyon. With classic moderate routes and steeper sport lines bathed in morning sun, it’s a great stop for climbers seeking focused challenges amid sweeping mountain views."

Climbing Camel Jockey Wall in Wyoming's Sinks Canyon

Camel Jockey stands out as a compact but compelling climbing destination tucked into Wyoming's Sinks Canyon near Lander. This smaller wall features a defining central dihedral and offers varied climbs that attract climbers looking for quality lines without the overwhelming scale of larger nearby crags. Most notably, More Funky Than Gunky (5.9) provides an engaging moderate challenge, while steeper routes like Camel Jockey (5.13b) push the limits for seasoned climbers.

The wall’s proximity to iconic neighboring climbs such as the Killer Cave and routes including Elmo’s Fish means you can easily weave together a day of diverse climbing experiences. The approach is straightforward—Camel Jockey is about 50 meters to the left of the last routes on Killer Cave. Traveling right from Addiction, climbers pass White Heat Wall and Briskets before arriving at this focused sector. This means access is quick, allowing for more time on the rock.

One of the area’s features is the wall’s sun and shade pattern. Camel Jockey faces east, earning morning sun that lights up the rock with warmth and clarity. As the day advances, the dihedral begins to fall into shade, offering cooler temperatures—a natural comfort for afternoon ascents during warm months. The prime climbing season aligns well with this pattern, typically spanning spring through fall, when Wyoming’s weather favors dry, stable conditions essential for safe climbing.

The rock here offers a mix of technical face and dihedral climbing, appealing to a broad range of styles. While the grades extend from moderate 5.8 routes like Put Down Your Ducky to challenging sport climbs like Steel Rain (5.12b) and the distinctive Camel Jockey (5.13b), the vibe remains accessible and rewarding. Classic climbs such as Child's Play (5.10c) and Red Light Love (5.11c) prime the wall for those wanting to test their skills on steadily harder pitches.

The intimacy of the setting provides a quiet alternative to busier walls, allowing climbers to savor the crisp mountain air and sweeping views of Wyoming’s rugged landscape. The rock’s texture and features feel reliable, but climbers should prepare for varied terrain, with some routes demanding sharp footwork and confident crack skills.

Gear-wise, traditional sport climbing racks with a focus on quickdraws for bolted lines will serve best. Protective hardware for anchors and a solid rope setup are essential, as standard single-pitch climbs dominate the area. The approach trail is clear but uneven in spots, so sturdy footwear with good traction is advised. Water and weather gear should reflect the altitude and shifting mountain conditions common here.

In short, Camel Jockey presents an excellent blend of challenges and charm—ideal for climbers looking to immerse themselves in a Wyoming crag that rewards effort with quality routes and a genuine mountain atmosphere. Whether you’re sharpening your technique on More Funky Than Gunky or chasing benchmarks like the imposing Camel Jockey route, the experience here balances adventure perfectly with pragmatic climbing enjoyment.

Climber Safety

While rock quality is generally solid, be cautious of loose debris near the base, and approach carefully on uneven trail sections. The wall’s shady afternoon spot can cool quickly, so bring layers to avoid chill after exposure to sun.

Area Details

TypeSport
Pitchessingle pitch
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Camel Jockey wall receives strong morning sun, making early hours ideal to warm up.

Approach the wall from Addiction route, passing White Heat Wall and Briskets on your right.

Afternoon climbs in the dihedral are cooler as the sun moves around the corner.

Pay attention to weather changes; mountain conditions can shift quickly in Sinks Canyon.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The climbs at Camel Jockey range from moderate 5.8 to challenging 5.13b, offering something for many skill levels. The area’s ratings are generally true to difficulty without being sandbagged, with classic routes like More Funky Than Gunky and Child's Play providing benchmark grades. Compared to other Lander area sport climbing pockets, Camel Jockey’s compact nature and central dihedral create a unique texture of moves favoring precise footwork and sustained technical sequences.

Gear Requirements

Climbers will want a typical sport rack with quickdraws for the bolted routes. Single pitch climbs dominate, making rope and anchor setup straightforward. The approach trail is short but uneven, so wear sturdy shoes.

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Tags

sport climbing
single pitch
dihedral
morning sun
moderate routes
Wyoming
Sinks Canyon