"Addiction offers sport climbers a diverse limestone wall bathed in morning sun and shaded afternoons, making it an ideal destination in Wyoming's Sinks Canyon. From moderate slabs to steep, powerful overhangs, this crag delivers a balanced adventure for climbers of many levels."
Addiction offers a compelling playground for sport climbers craving varied limestone challenges set against the rugged beauty of Wyoming’s Sinks Canyon. This southeast-facing wall catches morning sun, gently warming the routes before the afternoon shade rolls in—perfect timing to escape the heat during summer climbs. Approaching the crag involves an easy hike from the Main Sinks parking lot, located just above the third pay campground that overlooks both the Rise and the Sinks; a short trail brings you to the top of the left branch where Addiction’s walls unfold.
The climbs here mostly cling to solid limestone with pockets and edges sculpted by water and time, creating a versatile selection of holds that keep fingers and minds engaged. While some newer and less frequented routes show slightly looser rock, the majority are dependable and well worth exploring. The wall tilts predominantly into a slight overhang that demands good technique and body tension, but on the left flank you’ll find a handful of moderate slab climbs that provide a change in pace and style.
Set at an elevation of about 7,310 feet, the area enjoys a seasonal rhythm dictated by Wyoming’s variable weather. Spring through early fall offers the best windows for climbing, especially mornings before the heat of day prompts a retreat to shade or lower elevations. Precipitation can be unpredictable, so checking forecast conditions before setting off will ensure a safe and dry ascent.
Among the classic climbs at Addiction, routes like Go West, Young Man (5.7) provide accessible entry points on solid rock. More challenging lines such as Drug Enemy (5.12a), Public Enemy (5.12c), and The Gathering (5.13b) attract climbers seeking technical sport routes with well-earned reputations. Climbers looking to push hard will appreciate the steep, dynamic sequences of Dogs of War (5.13a) and Pretty Hate Machine (5.13b). These routes feature a blend of crimps, pockets, and powerful moves demanding precision and boldness.
Accessibility and quality combine here to create an environment welcoming to a broad range of climbers—from those testing moderate climbs to experienced sport climbers hunting for their next project. The approach trail is straightforward and well-worn, leading you through forested patches that frame views of the canyon below, helping climbers ease into their adventure with a sense of place and perspective.
Climbing at Addiction rewards preparation. Expect a route height that typically ranges from single-pitch to moderate runs under about 60 feet. Rappelling or walking off is standard for descent, but attention is required to avoid loose rock on lesser-used routes. Being mindful of the season and time of day maximizes comfort and safety, especially during peak summer heat when afternoon shade offers welcome respite.
Addiction sits within the broader Lander Area, part of Sinks Canyon State Park—a protected natural space known for stunning geological formations and a variety of outdoor activities. The limestone walls here invite climbers to engage not only with their routes but also with the larger environment to savor the lookouts, the crisp mountain air, and the dynamic weather patterns unique to Wyoming’s high-altitude canyon country.
For those planning a trip, gear up with a standard sport rack—draws and quickdraws will serve well on the bolted routes, but be prepared to evaluate newer climbs for stability as some edges are less established. The area’s rock is solid but retains areas of caution, making helmet use a smart choice. Because of variable sun exposure, layering is advisable for shifting temperatures.
Addiction stands as a solid destination for climbers drawn to challenging sport lines framed by a quiet, scenic canyon environment. Those eager for classic routes and technical limestone challenges will find ample opportunity here—and while the wall holds a serious edge, its setting encourages steady, thoughtful experiences. Whether chasing the pump on overhung sequences or savoring the balance of a slab climb, Addiction delivers an invigorating day in Wyoming’s high country climbing scene.
Watch for some loose rock on newer or less-traveled routes, especially off the main traffic lines. Wearing a helmet is highly recommended. Approach trails can be steep in places, so take care with footing and be cautious on rappel or walk-off descents to avoid rolling rocks.
Start early to enjoy climbs in morning sun before afternoon shade cools the wall.
The approach trail is well-maintained but moderate in elevation gain—good hiking shoes recommended.
Helmets are advised due to some loose rock on less established routes.
Check weather forecasts carefully as afternoon storms can move in quickly in summer.
Addiction mostly features bolted sport routes on reliable limestone, suited to standard sport climbing gear. Newer and less traveled routes may require careful evaluation of rock quality, so helmet use is recommended.
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