"Cliffs of Insanity invites climbers to explore sunlit, hillside crags beneath The Watchtower with a variety of routes from moderate to advanced. This California High Desert gem blends rugged terrain with solid rock and approachable access, offering a rewarding climbing experience year-round."
Set on a hillside beneath the distinct summit known as The Watchtower, the Cliffs of Insanity in California offer a rugged, sun-drenched playground for climbers eager to test their skills on diverse rock faces. Facing southwest, these crags bask in sunlight throughout the day, providing ideal conditions for climbing when cooler weather prevails in the desert stretch that characterizes this part of the High Desert near Barstow. The area is composed of a complex network of rock formations, each with its own character and challenge — from long, moderate climbs leaning around the left corner below The Watchtower, to steeper, more technical lines that push into the 5.13a range.
To reach the Cliffs of Insanity, start by following the same approach used for The Dude Ranch climbing area. Drive to the end of the access road where the cliffs rise conspicuously about 600 yards east and uphill. The trail leading to the base is straightforward and well-marked, but a secondary approach is possible by ascending to The Watchtower from the Main Area and then descending. This versatility in approach lets climbers customize their arrival to either conserve energy for the climbs or enjoy some extra exploration around the ridge.
Elevated around 3,700 feet, the crags command views that stretch across rugged canyon vistas and arid desert floors, creating a stark yet inviting atmosphere for day-long climbing sessions. The rock here varies but offers solid, reliable holds essential for both beginners and experienced climbers tackling the routes rated between 5.8 and 5.13a. Classic climbs such as Uncle Funs Basement (5.7), Mostly Dead (5.8), and Inconceivable (5.9) illustrate the approachable yet rewarding nature of many lines found here. These climbs have earned solid reputations for being well-protected and enjoyable routes that deliver on quality movement without excessive commitment.
The climate here leans dry with few precipitation days, making the best climbing season stretch through much of the year, though the shaded Main Area and the sunlit Cliffs of Insanity provide options depending on the time and intensity of the sun. Morning ascents on the southwest-facing cliffs mean warming up quickly in cooler months, while spring and fall bring more temperate conditions ideal for longer sessions.
When climbing, pack a solid rack to cover a range of protection needs, especially as some routes may demand adept use of both fixed gear and your own trad equipment. The approach trails are well-established, but given the hill’s elevation and desert setting, bringing plenty of water and sun protection is essential. Descending is convenient with access trails allowing for a walk-off back to the parking area or, for those coming from The Watchtower, a measured hike down the ridge avoids any risky downclimbing.
Overall, Cliffs of Insanity is a vibrant, underrated climbing destination that balances adventurous exposure with practical accessibility. Its sun-soaked slopes and classic routes offer a compelling blend of challenge and scenery in the heart of California’s High Desert. Whether you arrive aiming for an afternoon of approachable long routes or to push your limits on steeper climbs, this area holds a satisfying collection of lines framed by the striking Watchtower vista above.
Rock quality is generally solid but remain cautious on less trafficked climbs as some loose rock can appear near the trailheads. The desert environment demands attention to hydration and sun exposure, especially during warmer months. The approach involves uphill hiking on uneven terrain, so proper footwear and pacing are essential.
Approach trails are visible and easy to follow but expect some uneven terrain uphill.
Sun exposure is constant on the cliffs - start early or bring sun protection in warmer months.
Descending via the Watchtower route is longer but safer than downclimbing.
Stay hydrated - the elevation and dry climate can quickly dehydrate climbers.
Bring a full trad rack covering medium to small sizes with some fixed gear available on easier routes. Single and multi-pitch climbs demand basic to intermediate rack setups. Water, sun protection, and sturdy approach shoes are recommended due to exposed desert conditions and trail length.
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