Fantasy Island - A Technical Crag on the Edge of Raven Rocks

Barstow, California
long routes
technical climbing
shaded crag
sport climbing
high desert
multi-pitch option
quiet
sheltered
Length: 60 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
New Jack City, California
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Fantasy Island is a northeast-facing crag just south of Raven Rocks in California's High Desert. Known for its long, technical routes like Fantasia (5.11a) and The Minute Men Arete (5.11d), it offers climbers shaded climbs and a welcoming escape during warm weather months."

Fantasy Island - A Technical Crag on the Edge of Raven Rocks

Perched on a hillside just south of the imposing Raven Rocks, Fantasy Island offers an inviting northeast-facing cliff that stays shaded for much of the day, making it an ideal refuge when the High Desert sun climbs high. This crag, tucked into a canyon just below The Fairway, challenges climbers with long, technical routes that reward skill and precision. The rock quality here stands out among the surrounding terrain, with many routes presenting a mix of sustained moves and subtle features that demand careful footwork and sharp focus.

Accessing Fantasy Island is straightforward for those familiar with the nearby Raven Rocks. From Raven Rocks’ southern face, a trail snakes southward and ascends into a deep canyon where the crag awaits. The approach trail is moderately steep but well-trodden, threading through desert scrub and sparse trees that offer intermittent shade. The altitude and arid environment call for preparation – water, sun protection, and sturdy footwear equipped to handle rocky terrain are essential.

The climbing scene here is anchored by several standout routes. Fantasia, graded 5.11a, commands attention with its smooth transitions and technical sequences that require steady technique and patience. Another highlight, The Minute Men Arete (5.11d), is often praised for its engaging line and precise moves that push climbers’ limits. Both routes reflect the crag’s overall vibe — solid, enduring challenges that test both mental and physical endurance.

Fantasy Island’s northeast aspect ensures cooler conditions compared to south or west-facing cliffs nearby. This orientation extends the prime climbing season, especially through warmer months when the afternoon sun rarely reaches the face directly. Climbers can expect comfortable conditions from early spring through late fall, with the best windows falling in the milder periods of November to April when days are sunny but temperatures are manageable.

Gear requirements at Fantasy Island lean towards sport protection, with bolts generally reliable and spaced for confident leads. While technical climbing demands attentive clipping and route-reading, the rock quality allows climbers to trust their placements. Helmets are recommended due to loose rock potential around the canyon approach and at the cliff base. As always, climbers should double-check anchors and setup points before committing to any lead.

The surrounding landscape is typical of the southern California High Desert — dry, rugged, and spectacular. Views from the top of the routes include sweeping vistas of the Barstow area and the distant San Gabriel Mountains. The peacefulness here contrasts with the occasional buzz of climbers and local wildlife, creating a balanced outdoor experience that refreshes both mind and body.

Descents from Fantasy Island are generally straightforward. Walk-offs via trails leading back to the canyon floor are preferred, avoiding complex or risky rappels. This ease of descent allows climbers to enjoy multiple laps or spend ample time exploring different lines without logistical concerns. Always remain vigilant for loose rock on the way down and keep groups informed about your planned descent path.

For visitors planning a trip, Fantasy Island offers a blend of technical climbing with desert-side beauty. It’s a place where climbers come to sharpen their skills amid quiet natural surroundings. Whether you’re working classic routes like Fantasia and The Minute Men Arete or simply soaking in the carved rock and canyon air, this crag delivers a practical challenge and lasting memories in equal measure.

Climber Safety

Loose rock can be present on the approach and near the cliff base. Helmets are recommended, and caution should be taken while descending on the walk-off route, which may have unstable footing in spots.

Area Details

TypeSport
Pitchessingle pitch
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start from the south face of Raven Rocks and follow the trail uphill and south into the canyon.

Bring plenty of water and sun protection as the desert environment can be dehydrating.

The northeast-facing wall stays shaded most of the day—ideal for hot weather climbing.

Plan your descent on the established walk-off trail to avoid loose rock hazards.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Routes at Fantasy Island fall between 5.11a and 5.11d, offering a consistent challenge that requires solid technique but is not known for sandbagging. Climbs here reward precision and careful movement, making it suitable for climbers comfortable with sustained technical sequences. Compared to other High Desert areas, the grading aligns with typical California sport climbs featuring clean, bolted lines with little to no soft grades.

Gear Requirements

Most routes are bolted sport climbs with reliable protection. Helmets are advised due to loose rock along the approach and near the cliff base.

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Tags

long routes
technical climbing
shaded crag
sport climbing
high desert
multi-pitch option
quiet
sheltered