"Cinco De Mayo is a solitary trad climb tucked deep within No Thoroughfare Canyon, offering awkward moves on fragile rock framed by a stark desert landscape. Its long approach and careful rope work make it a rewarding challenge for seasoned climbers seeking a low-traffic adventure near Grand Junction."
Cinco De Mayo challenges climbers with its remote setting deep within No Thoroughfare Canyon at Colorado National Monument near Grand Junction. This trad route is a rare prize accessed either from a long hike or a technical descent from above, offering a taste of solitude and rugged canyon climbing. Approaching from the east entrance involves a drive along Rim Rock Drive and a careful traverse through East Glade Park Road to a large pullout where the climb begins on foot. After hopping a fence and heading south, a faint cairn may mark the way to a drainage with a large bowl overhead. From here, you face a critical choice: rap or downclimb a 4th class initial section to reach a tree above a narrow slot. The rappel demands vigilance—rope wear is a real concern here, so padding or fixed ropes are essential. This section encourages bringing ascenders for the return.
Beyond the rappel, the route reveals its climbing character: awkward and somewhat unusual moves along a right-facing dihedral, loose rock challenging steadiness but never overwhelming the overall grade. The anchor shares bolts with the nearby Chocolate Corner route, reinforcing a sense of community at this isolated crag. Protection requires a rack that extends to large cams, including sizes up to #4 Friends, to confidently place safe gear on the varied cracks and corners.
Despite a modest single pitch, the experience carries the weight of approach and careful technical execution. The natural surroundings hold the quiet pulse of canyon winds and the subtle creak of rock shifts, asking respect and patience. Descending the route calls for a double 70-foot rappel into the canyon floor followed by a roughly 400-yard grunt downhill to the signature pinnacle that defines this climb's distinctive setting.
For those enamored with solitude, challenge, and the stark landscape carved by millennia, Cinco De Mayo delivers a straightforward yet captivating trad climb. It demands preparation—long hikes, rope management, and careful protection choices—but rewards with a unique vertical encounter beneath Colorado's desert sky. This route isn’t an everyday outing; it’s a deliberate adventure for climbers looking for that blend of wilderness and technical tradition.
Rappel sections experience significant rope abrasion; always use rope protection gear and regularly inspect for wear. The downclimb at 4th class level requires caution as the rock can be loose and exposure increases. Approach hikes are long and remote, so bring sufficient water and navigation tools.
Approach from the east entrance via Rim Rock Drive for clearer navigation.
Pad the rope on the rappel to avoid severe wear from contact with rock edges.
Leave the bottom two ropes fixed for safer and more efficient descent and return.
Prepare for a long approach hike over 4 miles if coming from below.
Bring a full trad rack up to #4 Friends to handle the cracks and dihedrals. Two bolt anchors are shared with Chocolate Corner. Due to rope wear during rappels in narrow slots, padding or fixed ropes are highly recommended. Ascenders will ease the return rope haul or ascend.
Upload your photos of Cinco De Mayo and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.