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Chicken Legs at Turkey Rocks: A Crisp 5.9 R Trad Challenge

Denver, Colorado USA
crack climb
friction slab
single pitch
trad gear
runout
South Platte
5.9 R
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Chicken Legs
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Chicken Legs at Turkey Rocks offers a grounded trad route with a split personality—friendly crack climbing below and a tricky friction topout. Perfect for climbers craving a short but engaging challenge in the South Platte."

Chicken Legs at Turkey Rocks: A Crisp 5.9 R Trad Challenge

Chicken Legs sits quietly to the left of Reptillian Wall within the Turkey Rocks sector, greeting climbers with a blend of approachable crack climbing and a surprisingly demanding finish. The route starts off as an inviting scramble up a series of flakes and cracks, where hands and feet find reassuring purchase among the textured rock. This lower section offers plenty of gear placements, making the initial moves feel secure and controlled. Yet, just as comfort sets in, the climb shifts tone. The final 15 feet demand focused movement on a steep, crystal-studded face, requiring precise friction work on smooth surfaces that test your balance and nerve. Protection here fades, leaving the last moves more exposed and compelling. The summit is crowned by a rounded block where climbers can rig an anchor by threading a sling around a narrow horizontal crack or relying on a solid bouldering anchor above. Descent is straightforward, with a short walk off to the left side, providing a quick return to the base.

Variations on this route exist to the left and right, with the left track offering a slightly less technical alternative that drops nearer to 5.8 difficulty. Chicken Legs carries an adventurous edge, amplified by the ‘R’ rating that hints at potential runouts on the upper friction slab, urging climbers to commit confidently once past the secure lower section. The location in the South Platte area of Colorado situates this climb in a rugged, relatively low-elevation zone where the rock often feels warm to the touch midday and the approach is swift. Climbers should prepare for brisk encounters with crystal friction and gear-light movement above comfortable protection.

Planning a climb here means valuing crisp, confident footwork and solid traditional gear skills. While the start is forgiving, the crux stretch requires mental focus, steady hands, and a readiness for minimal protection. Spring through fall offers the most stable weather windows, and afternoon shade is limited on the wall, making early morning starts ideal for cooler rock temperatures. The approach is short and practical, allowing climbers to maximize time on the wall amidst sprawling South Platte vistas. For trad climbers seeking a brief but lively single-pitch route that tests both crack technique and slab balance with a gritty edge, Chicken Legs is a fitting choice.

Climber Safety

Watch for sparse protection above the crack; the friction slab exposes climbers to potential longer falls. Take care to scout your moves carefully and avoid relying on fragile crystals for balance. Anchor requires a runner around a narrow crack or boulder sling—ensure it’s secure before trusting it with your full weight.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Approach is short and accessible; leave early to catch cooler rock conditions.

Bring a full trad rack focused on standard cams and stoppers sized for finger and hand cracks.

Prepare to sling the boulder at the top for anchor; no fixed anchors are present.

Left variation appears slightly easier and may suit climbers less confident on friction slabs.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 R grade reflects a runout finish that raises the route’s commitment level. While the crack section feels solid and approachable, the steep, crystal-strewn slab near the top demands precise, jitter-free climbing and trust in feet placement. Compared to local classics, Chicken Legs leans into a gritty friction challenge reminiscent of other South Platte slabs but with less protection, making it feel somewhat stiffer than a typical 5.9.

Gear Requirements

Expect ample protection opportunities in the lower crack system, though it feels secure enough to use minimal gear early on. The upper friction slab offers no natural protection, so be prepared for runout climbing and trust your footwork as the gear thins significantly nearing the anchor.

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Tags

crack climb
friction slab
single pitch
trad gear
runout
South Platte
5.9 R