"CBU offers a balanced two-pitch climb at The Dome, weaving comfortable trad placements with dependable bolts. Its right-edge slab line combines technical finger cracks and friction climbing, perfect for anyone seeking a focused adventure in the heart of 10 Mile Canyon."
CBU carves a compelling route along the right edge of a broad slab at The Dome, situated within the rugged expanse of 10 Mile Canyon, Colorado. This two-pitch climb blends traditional placements with well-placed bolts, creating a versatile experience that challenges both gear hunters and those who prefer clipped protection. The climb begins with a careful traverse onto a shallow ledge, immediately placing you face-to-slab and searching for secure placements near the arete. This opening pitch offers thoughtful gear opportunities interspersed with solid friction moves and a moderate angle, making it accessible yet engaging.
A midway belay station invites a pause—an essential checkpoint where you can shake out and prepare for the second pitch’s technical nuances. The rope drag can become a factor above this point, so clipping out your anchors here is not just a convenience, but a tactical choice.
Pitch two demands attention and finesse as you climb into a sweeping right-facing corner beneath a prominent roof. Here, a finger crack invites precise jams that reward careful technique. The crack, slanting right beneath the overhang, feels like the route's heartbeat, challenging climbers to trust their hands and feet in equal measure. At the lip, a large horn presents the final physical obstacle before swinging left and pulling past a mild overhang, arriving at the top’s two-bolt anchor.
For those seeking greater challenge, the “Say No to Bolts” variation diverges midway, ascending an overhanging crack that requires more powerful moves and confidence on less forgiving terrain. This option elevates the exposure and commitment, rewarding climbers with a strong sense of accomplishment.
The climb rests on a slab that demands both subtle balance and occasionally bold lunges, with a rock quality that generally inspires confidence. The exposure here is real, but manageable, giving a taste of elevation without overwhelming.
This route sits roughly 100 feet in length, making it an excellent choice for climbers wanting a quick but satisfying climb that pairs well with other routes in the area. The trad gear requirement calls for a standard rack complemented by a duplicate set of finger-sized cams (0.4-1), ensuring secure placements in all key sections. Bolted anchors ease transition and lower anxiety, especially for less experienced leaders.
Located at 39.57073 latitude and -106.11763 longitude, The Dome offers a broader climbing playground within 10 Mile Canyon’s renowned cliffs, known for accessible approaches and a moderate alpine atmosphere. The area experiences notable sun exposure on its southern faces, making early morning or late afternoon climbs more comfortable during summer heat. Seasons from late spring to early fall provide the best window, avoiding winter’s frozen grip or spring runoff.
Approaching CBU requires navigating well-maintained trails with some uneven terrain, a brief 15-minute stroll from the main parking area. The descent involves a straightforward double rappel from the top anchors, though care is needed on the final slung rap station to avoid rope abrasion. Alternatively, strong downclimbers may carefully downclimb the low-angle slab with sufficient caution.
Whether you’re stepping up as a rookie trad climber, or looking for a dependable multi-pitch to refine slab skills, CBU offers a compelling blend of adventure and technique. Its mix of natural gear placements and sport anchors creates a rhythm that prepares you to manage rope drag, gear transitions, and sustained slab climbing—all within a route that speaks clearly to the careful and observant climber.
Be cautious of rope drag between pitches; ensure mid-pitch bolts are clipped properly. The slab’s slick surface can become slick with dust or moisture, so maintain clean footholds. The rappel descent requires attention to avoid rope abrasion at fixed stations.
Clip the mid-pitch bolt anchor to minimize rope drag on pitch two.
Finger crack protection is critical; bring duplicate cams in the 0.4 to 1 range.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun on the slab and keep holds cool.
Consider the 'Say No to Bolts' variation only if comfortable with overhang crack climbing.
A standard trad rack is essential, supplemented by a second set of finger-sized cams ranging from .4 to 1. The route features two well-spaced bolt anchors mid-pitch and at the top, easing transitions and limiting rope drag.
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