"Cat Burglar challenges climbers with a technical face sequence just past the second bolt, set on the solid granite of Bandit Buttress. This single-pitch 5.9 climb blends confident movement and reliable protection for a compelling outing near Lake Tahoe."
Cat Burglar stands as a compelling single-pitch sport climb perched on Bandit Buttress within the rugged confines of Woodfords Canyon, just off the Carson Pass Highway. The route offers an engaging challenge for climbers ready to test their ability on solid granite with a 5.9 PG13 rating that demands focus, especially on the opening moves. The approach to Bandit Buttress is a straightforward affair, winding through pine-scented forests and light understory that opens onto the sunlit granite walls. This southeast-facing crag bakes in the morning sun, making early starts ideal for beating the heat.
From the ground, Cat Burglar’s start commands attention. A delicate sequence leads up on firm, textured rock to the clip at the second bolt — a crux that introduces the bite of this climb. Here, feel the steady edge beneath your fingers and test your balance as you move right toward a large, narrowing crack that fades into a small ledge above. The climb then welcomes you to push left, moving across blocks that feel alive underfoot, guiding you diagonally up and left until you reach the shared anchor with the neighboring route, The Prowler.
At 85 feet, Cat Burglar rewards steady footwork and confident clipping. The protection is ample, featuring 9 to 10 well-placed bolts that create a reassuring safety net without disrupting the flow. The rock’s consistency here is notable—the granite offers good friction, but occasional loose blocks require careful attention especially near the top.
For climbers visiting Lake Tahoe’s broader region, this route delivers quality moderate climbing with a rugged outlook framed by towering pines and the distant washes of mountain terrain. Its exposed face presents a clear test of technique more than brute strength, suited for adventurous climbers stepping up from easier climbs but not yet seeking sustained crimpy challenges.
To prepare, pack shoes with solid edging capability and trim your approach shoes—trail access is rocky and uneven, so durable footwear is a must. Bring plenty of water; the canyon can dry quickly under direct sun, particularly in midsummer. Timing your climb for morning or late afternoon avoids the sun’s peak intensity and keeps temperatures comfortable. A helmet is wise given the occasional loose block near the top, and a moderate rack of quickdraws will suffice.
Cat Burglar captures the essence of accessible adventure: clearly protected, technically interesting, and set in a landscape that invites exploration beyond the rope. Whether you’re looking to sharpen your sport climbing skills or enjoy a rewarding outing in one of California’s less trafficked alpine corridors, this climb offers a refreshing blend of focus and freedom.
Watch for loose blocks above the crux section and clip bolts carefully to avoid falls. The route’s exposure to sun and dry conditions means dehydration and heat exposure are risks during summer. Approach terrain is rocky; sturdy shoes and attention on footing are important.
Start early to avoid the full heat of the south-east-facing wall.
Wear shoes with strong edging for the tricky face move at the start.
Bring a helmet to guard against occasional loose rock above the crux.
Carry enough water; the dry canyon sun can catch climbers off guard.
The route is protected by 9 to 10 bolts, spaced generously enough to offer security through the crux yet demanding precise clipping during the crux move near the second bolt.
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