"Castle Rock II in Rabbit Valley delivers a solid two-pitch trad climb with moderate 5.9 moves on desert slabs and a gritty crack. Ideal for climbers seeking approachable gear placements alongside straightforward scrambling, this route offers desert exposure and a rewarding descent via rappel."
Castle Rock II offers an approachable trad climbing experience in the rugged setting of Rabbit Valley near Grand Junction, Colorado. This two-pitch route stretches roughly 100 feet over solid slabs and features a distinctive crack system that provides climbers with both challenge and charm. With a 5.9 rating, the climb presents an accessible entry point into traditional climbing, demanding steady technique and a readiness to manage limited protection.
Starting on the southwest side of the formation, the approach to the first pitch is a straightforward scramble over slabby terrain, grounding you in the raw texture of desert rock warmed by the sun. The climb then moves past a shallow piton hole, leading to a bedding seam where careful footwork is essential. A purposeful traverse left guides you to the main crack—your anchor and line of attack. This crack, marked by graffiti and scattered reminders of off-highway vehicle visitors, invites you to grunt your way upward for about 25 feet, testing your hand jams and body positioning before settling onto a generous ledge equipped with a large horn for your belay.
The second pitch shifts character slightly, requiring a leftward traverse around a summit block to reach the quieter, opposite side. Here, scrambling replaces technical climbing, allowing for a solo ascent to the summit. The route’s lack of abundant protection demands awareness and care, especially on the upper sections where pro is sparse, and some placements require negotiation with the natural rock features.
Descending calls for caution; climbers rappel off a fixed pin and a loose bolt found just to the right of the summit. Given the exposed nature of these anchors and the brittle quality of some hardware, double-check your setup. The climb’s exposed ledges and occasional loose rock warn against complacency, especially when retreating.
Castle Rock II balances quiet desert solitude with a straightforward but engaging climb. It rewards those prepared with the basic trad rack, a steady approach, and an eye for clean placements. The nearby terrain offers sweeping desert air and open vistas, enriching the effort with vivid desert sunlight and a calm, open sky. For climbers ready to spar briefly with crack climbing techniques in a remote but not overly remote setting, Castle Rock II stands out as a clear and satisfying adventure.
Exercise caution on the descent; the rappel anchors include a loose bolt and pin, which should be carefully tested before committing. Sections near the summit have loose rock, and footing on the slabby approach can be unstable, so move deliberately and avoid dislodging debris onto climbers below.
Approach on slabby terrain requires steady footing—wear shoes with good rubber and be ready for loose rock near the base.
Watch for old graffiti and debris near the crack; carry a small brush to clean placements and leave no trace.
Downclimb carefully off the summit ledge and always double-check rappel anchors; the bolt near the summit is notably loose.
Plan your climb for mid-morning or late afternoon to avoid the harshest desert sun on the southwest-facing slabs.
Bring a standard trad rack including singles from BD #0.5 to #4, with an extra #0.75 or #1 highly recommended for securing the bedding seam. A single rope suffices for the rappel descent.
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