"Carter Route presents a two-pitch trad climb weaving through a right-angled crack in Monument Canyon’s towering sandstone. With a loose rock challenge and updated anchors, this route demands steady caution and solid gear skills in a remote desert setting."
Carving a distinctive line on the reddish walls of Monument Canyon within Colorado National Monument, the Carter Route offers climbers a straightforward yet cautiously demanding climb. This two-pitch traditional route leans heavily on a right-angling crack that sits just left of the better-known Left Dihedral. At first glance, the crack seems welcoming, like an open invitation to ascend, but it quickly reveals its uneasy character with sections of loose rock demanding attentive movement and careful placements. The rock's instability means every move requires a deliberate focus, reminding climbers that sometimes the route demands respect over reward.
The climb's length climbs to approximately 100 feet, terminating at a rappel station consisting of a two-bolt anchor. Though functional, the anchor and surrounding rock do not inspire confidence, urging climbers to approach with caution rather than carefree enthusiasm. Protection here leans heavily on a variety of wires and smaller cams, with the updated anchors easing belay transitions but not reducing the need for thorough gear checks. Experienced trad climbers will want to carry a generous range of small to medium cams to cover the crack securely.
Monument Canyon's setting enhances the climb's urgency; the sun-drained desert environment conjures dry heat and bright light during much of the day, so early starts or late afternoon approaches can offer natural relief in cooling shadows. The terrain requires a steady approach as the canyon floor combines scrubby vegetation with uneven footing. Expect around a 20-minute trek from the parking area, following a well-defined trail that transitions from packed earth to loose scree near the cliff base.
One of the climb’s notable qualities is how the rock requires active engagement. Loose holds provoke careful testing, and the basalt walls are less forgiving than their solid counterparts nearby. Those familiar with local classics will find Carter Route less polished but a useful test of attentive climbing technique in an iconic Colorado canyon. Importantly, the route carries a 5.9 rating that feels valid—cruxes are straightforward, but the looseness adds an understated layer of challenge that softens the ease often expected at this grade.
For those preparing to take on Carter Route, hydration is key—Monument Canyon’s arid climate can sap energy quickly. Solid footwear with precise edging ability will aid navigating both the crack and the scuffed approach trails. Some wind tends to stir pockets of grit and dust, so eye protection is worth considering. Given the cautious nature of the anchors and loose rock, it’s not a climb for the casual or faint-hearted but provides a practical experience in managing risk on less-than-perfect terrain.
This route stands as much a lesson in vigilance as skill, a reminder that not every inviting crack rewards flashy moves. Instead, Carter Route asks for steady hands, measured placements, and a sharp eye. It’s an exercise in climbing’s essential balance—adventure tempered by pragmatism—set against the expansive backdrop of Colorado’s rugged landscape.
Loose rock sections require careful testing before weighting holds, and while the two-bolt anchor is serviceable, it’s less than inspiring—double-check all gear before committing. Avoid this route after heavy rains as rockfall risk increases.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat and benefit from morning shade.
Carry a full set of small to medium cams; placements can be tricky due to loose rock.
Approach via the well-marked trail with steady footing but watch for loose scree near the base.
Use eye protection to shield from dust stirred by desert winds.
Wires and a variety of smaller cams are essential for properly protecting the crack. Updated two-bolt anchors at the top improve safety on belays, but bring extra gear to ensure solid placements along the loose sections.
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