"Carhartt Crack challenges climbers with a distinctive trad chimney experience on a single 110-foot pitch. Combining horizontal placements and a bold unprotected bulge, it rewards those ready to commit to wedging and chimney technique in the quiet surroundings of Woodfords Canyon."
Carhartt Crack stands out as a compelling test of chimney technique situated within the rugged landscape of Woodfords Canyon, just off the Carson Pass Highway. This single-pitch trad route offers 110 feet of sustained movement, combining roomy jams with committed chimneying that pushes climbers’ body awareness and gear placements to the limit. The approach leads you to an easy block where the route begins, framing a void that beckons you upwards. Here, climbers engage in a tactile dance, twisting and wedging through a narrowing passage that demands both patience and precision.
The climbing starts with hands gripping horizontal breaks and flakes, perfect spots to place protection, mostly doubles to 2 inches and a single 3-inch piece, plus slings to extend placements where needed. After settling into this rhythm, the route plunges into an unprotectable chimney section that requires committing fully to chimney moves through a bulge—an imposing feature that tests core strength and balance. Exiting this tight embrace, you reach a hand crack that rises sharply, providing a striking contrast with simpler moves that lead to a secure two-bolt anchor.
Set against the backdrop of the expansive Sierra Nevada foothills, this climb offers not only technical challenge but a sensory immersion: dry pine needles underfoot, warm sunlight filtering through sparse tree cover, and the distant murmur of wilderness winds. Its rating of 5.9 R reflects both the moderate technical difficulty and the runout nature of the chimney bulge, demanding climbers to focus not just on moves but on mental composure.
To take on Carhartt Crack successfully, come prepared with a well-rounded trad rack including smaller cams that comfortably fit into horizontal cracks and flakes and be ready for the physicality of chimney climbing that won’t always allow for protection placement. Planning your climb during late spring through early fall delivers warmer, more stable conditions. The area’s elevation around 7,000 feet means hydration and acclimatization are key—thin air can sap energy faster than expected.
This climb represents a rewarding challenge for climbers looking to expand their trad skills beyond finger cracks and faces, offering a compelling blend of occasional protection opportunities and sections where trust in movement and friction becomes paramount. Whether you’re sharpening chimney techniques or seeking a memorable route on the quieter side of the Lake Tahoe region, Carhartt Crack delivers an adventure grounded in tactile engagement and natural flow.
The bulge section of the chimney is unprotectable and demands confident chimneying and body positioning. Falling here could be serious, so be sure your placements beforehand are solid and your climbing technique precise. The rock is stable but can be slippery if wet—avoid climbing after rainfall or early morning dew.
Start early in the day to avoid midday heat on exposed sections.
Wear sticky-soled shoes with good toe stiffness for chimney jamming.
Hydrate well before the approach; altitude can increase fatigue.
Check weather forecasts carefully—this area is best climbed dry to avoid slippery rock.
Bring doubles to 2" cams and one 3" cam for horizontal and flake placements. Slings are recommended for extending protection. Gear placements are solid in horizontals but the chimney bulge requires committing moves without gear.
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