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Butterfingers at Tootsie Pop Tower: A Crisp Sport Climb in Alabama Hills

Lone Pine, California United States
sport climbing
positive edges
flakes
desert
single pitch
moderate crux
Length: 50 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Butterfingers
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Butterfingers scales the left side of Tootsie Pop Tower’s south face with solid protection and clean, positive holds. This approachable 5.9 sport climb blends technical moves on flakes with a brief crux, tucked into the rugged beauty of California’s Alabama Hills."

Butterfingers at Tootsie Pop Tower: A Crisp Sport Climb in Alabama Hills

Butterfingers offers a focused encounter with the unique rock formations of the Alabama Hills, inviting climbers to engage directly with the south face of Tootsie Pop Tower. This single-pitch sport route stretches 50 feet along positive edges and flakes—features that feel both reliable under your hands and subtly alive, as if the rock itself encourages measured movement. Approaching the climb, you’re greeted by an expanse of weathered rock, sun-warmed and etched with textures that guide your ascent.

From the base, the route moves steadily up the left portion of the face. Each hold feels earned yet accessible, with flakes that invite careful balancing and dynamique reaches that reward smooth technique. The crux centers around a large hollow flake, where a precise right-hand placement shifts the rhythm of the climb—this move demands focus and control, a brief test of strength and mindset before the terrain opens again toward the top.

Protected by three bolts and finished off with a Fixe ring anchor, Butterfingers maintains a clean, sport-focused feel that suits climbers confidently comfortable with clipping and trusting fixed gear. The rock’s warm texture and solid holds encourage a steady pace, making the climb an inviting challenge for those stepping into 5.9 territory or sharpening their sport climbing skills.

Alabama Hills’ rugged desert landscape surrounds the route, bringing in dry heat and wind that plays against the rock’s sun-drenched face. The approach trail is straightforward, winding through open, rocky terrain with sparse vegetation that takes on a warm golden tone in late afternoon light.

With a rating that sits comfortably at 5.9, Butterfingers balances technical moves and physical engagement without pushing into sustained difficulty. It’s a route that rewards attentive footwork and body positioning, making it well-suited as both a confident send for intermediate climbers and an enjoyable warm-up for more advanced athletes exploring the area.

Climbing here requires awareness of the desert climate: carry adequate water, wear sun protection, and time your climb to avoid the high heat of midday. Early mornings and late afternoons offer cooler conditions and softer shadows that help reveal subtle rock textures vital for effective holds.

Butterfingers is more than a climb—it’s an invitation to read the rock and respond to its quiet challenges amid one of California’s most visually striking climbing areas. Its modest length and approachable protection make it an excellent choice for a spirited afternoon session on adventure-rich terrain.

Climber Safety

While the protection is solid with bolts and a fixed anchor, climbers should be mindful of loose rock near the base and be cautious during the approach to avoid slips on uneven desert terrain. The sun exposure calls for sunblock and proper hydration, especially in warmer months.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early or late in the day to beat the desert heat and enjoy cooler rock temperatures.

Bring at least 2 liters of water; the approach offers minimal shade.

Wear shoes with solid edging ability for the positive flakes and edges.

Check wind conditions before climbing, as gusts can affect balance on exposed sections.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Butterfingers carries a comfortable 5.9 rating that feels true to grade with a distinct crux at the large hollow flake. The difficulty is concentrated rather than sustained, creating a well-paced climb ideal for those building confidence on sport routes. Compared to other nearby routes in the Candy Store area, it offers a straightforward challenge without any unexpected spikes in difficulty.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by three bolts leading to a Fixe ring anchor at the top, requiring standard sport climbing gear including quickdraws and a rope suited for 50-foot pitches.

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Tags

sport climbing
positive edges
flakes
desert
single pitch
moderate crux