Butcher's West - Sunny Overhangs in Vermont’s Northern Forest

Montpelier, Vermont
overhanging
sunny
sport
bushwhack approach
seasonal closures
northern vermont
single pitch
quiet crag
Length: 40 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Butcher’s West offers a handful of sunny overhanging sport routes deep in northern Vermont’s forested hills. Its south-facing walls provide a rare mix of warmth and challenge, framed by a rustic, half-hidden approach perfect for climbers looking to escape the crowds."

Butcher's West - Sunny Overhangs in Vermont’s Northern Forest

Butcher’s West is a small yet captivating crag tucked in the northern Vermont woods, offering climbers a rare opportunity to ascend on a sunny, south-facing overhanging wall. This compact cluster of sport routes might be limited in number, but its character is undeniable. Bright sunlight hits the steep rock throughout much of the day, lending a warm, welcoming atmosphere that contrasts with the often cool forested surroundings. Approaching this hidden gem isn’t straightforward — the trail weaves through dense woodland and requires bushwhacking along a crest before arriving at a distinct, long slab marked by a solitary tree with old tat, a subtle hint of the climbing history here.

The final approach maneuvers around boulders and into a massive fissure where the crux of the climbing begins. Here stand the three main routes, directly carved out from the shaded fissure itself. Though limited in quantity, these routes present solid challenges, with the classic "Under the Cleaver" standing out as a 5.12a that rewards skilled climbers with a satisfying send and a proud 4.5-star rating — a clear indicator of quality despite the few options.

Accessing Butcher’s West demands some attention. From the Route 15 parking lot, the hike follows the Long Trail north for roughly 10 minutes before a left turn onto the crest trail, which requires some willingness to bushwhack through greener, untamed patches of forest. Alternatively, the approach from the Hogback parking pull-off involves heading south past Butcher's Island, eventually meeting the same final ridge where the climbs begin. Regardless of the chosen path, the effort to reach Butcher's West ensures that visitors feel truly rewarded when standing before the wall, as the sense of seclusion and embrace by the natural Vermont environment is palpable.

Climbers should be aware of seasonal raptor closures influencing access — these are vital for preserving the native bird populations during nesting seasons. It is strongly advised to check current access status at cragvt.org before planning a trip. The crag sits at approximately 560 feet elevation, high enough to yield cooler temperatures but low enough for comfortable climbing most of the year, especially in the prime seasons spanning late spring through early fall.

The rock itself is unique to this location, though not extensively documented here, the south-facing exposure creates ideal conditions for those yearning for bright walls that catch the sun early and stay warm into mid-afternoon. A distinct feature of Butcher’s West is its relative quiet compared to the busier Butcher’s Island crag nearby — meaning climbers can often count on a private session without interruption. This exclusivity makes it especially appealing for focused sport climbers looking to escape crowds while testing their skills on well-maintained routes.

Safety-wise, the terrain leading to the climbs involves bushwhacking and navigating around boulders, demanding steady footing and awareness, particularly when descending back to the trailhead. Climbers should also plan for carrying appropriate gear for modest approaches and stay vigilant for natural hazards like loose rock or slippery forest debris.

Butcher’s West, while not boasting dozens of routes, holds a solid niche within the Northern Vermont climbing scene. It’s perfect for climbers who savor sunny, steep sport climbs and are willing to earn their turns through a memorable, rugged approach. With classic climbs such as "Under the Cleaver" offering crux moves at 5.12a, it appeals to those chasing challenging, quality routes rather than volume. If you crave a climbing experience where the forest’s raw edge meets direct sunlight on overhanging walls, Butcher’s West offers just that—a rewarding blend of adventure, quiet focus, and exposure to Vermont’s natural climbing pulse.

Climber Safety

Approach involves bushwhacking and traversing uneven forest terrain with loose rocks; caution is advised especially when descending. Also, seasonal raptor closures restrict climbing access during nesting periods — climbing during these times is prohibited to protect wildlife.

Area Details

TypeSport
Pitchessingle pitch
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Check cragvt.org for seasonal raptor closures before visiting.

Prepare for uneven terrain and bushwhacking on the approach.

Plan your hike from Route 15 parking lot for the shortest access route.

Wear sturdy footwear for negotiating forest floor and slab sections.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The climbing here centers around well-protected sport routes with a classic 5.12a as the highlight. The grades feel true to their rating, giving a fair challenge to climbers comfortable in the low to mid 5.12 range. Compared to other Northern Vermont sport crags, Butcher's West has a straightforward grading scheme without surprises or sandbagging, making it reliable for sending goals.

Gear Requirements

Sport climbing gear recommended. Fixed anchors are present; no trad gear required. Approach includes some bushwhacking and scrambling over boulders.

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Tags

overhanging
sunny
sport
bushwhack approach
seasonal closures
northern vermont
single pitch
quiet crag