Broken Bit offers an adventurous bite into Medlicott Dome’s west face, threading unusual mantles and delicate moves that challenge both body and mind. From the start, climbers engage with quirky, balance-dependent mantles leading to a tight, compact roof that demands precise footwork. Beyond this, the route shifts to a well-guarded face protected by bolts, where placements feel secure as you ascend past four bolts. But then the character changes—you leave the comfort of solid protection behind and enter an exposed sequence on a knobby face. This section requires steady nerves and confident climbing: the protection thins dramatically, with large runouts past a flake that tests your mental game before reaching the anchor shared with the nearby Gold Member route.

The climb covers roughly 195 feet in a single pitch, with an additional questionable second pitch that follows the Goldmember dike. This extension ventures left and up into Shagadelic territory but offers no reliable protection, making it a high-risk option best avoided or approached only by the most bold and prepared. The dike’s slick surface is unforgiving, emphasizing the importance of cautious, deliberate movement.

Medlicott Dome itself is a gem within Yosemite National Park’s Tuolumne Meadows area, presenting a granite canvas etched with rounded spires and sweeping openings. The west face hangs in the cool afternoon shadow, offering refuge from the hot valley sun while exposing climbers to steady breezes and a rhythm of birdcalls and distant water runoff. With coordinates perched at 37.85919, -119.42859, this route suits climbers who appreciate both technical challenges and scenic variety.

Protection involves a mix of five bolts, a well-placed piton, and a handful of traditional gear options: small cams in the .4 to .5 Camalot range, red aliens, medium-sized nuts, and slings for securing around distinctive knob-like features in the rock. The varied gear mix and runout sections call for careful planning and readiness to manage risk comfortably.

Accessing Broken Bit requires a moderate approach through Tuolumne Meadows and then scrambling across the granite apron toward Medlicott Dome’s west flank. The trail is faint but straightforward, with about 20 to 30 minutes of steady hiking over uneven terrain. Because the face turns toward the west, the climb experiences the best light and cooler conditions in the afternoon hours, especially later in the climbing season when the morning sun can feel intense.

Safety is paramount here: the rating of 5.8 R signals that protection is sparse and runouts can be intimidating. Climbers should expect a cruxy sequence within the mantles and must feel comfortable on exposed face moves with limited gear opportunities. Rock quality remains consistently solid, but the knobby features that aid protection can be tricky to sling securely, so attention to gear placement and rope management is essential.

Once topping out, descent is simple yet demands care: rappel can be made directly from the anchor shared with Gold Member, using standard 60-meter ropes. The route’s overall height and exposed sections reward climbers willing to test their judgment, balance, and gear skills on this distinctive Yosemite classic. Broken Bit strikes a compelling balance between engaging face climbing and mental grit on a route that’s as memorable for its unusual moves as for its storied name change and local history.

Prepare for your day here with solid trad rack essentials including small cams, nuts, and several slings, plus a helmet and sturdy shoes for slick granite edges. Water and layered clothing are advised given the dome’s variable summer and fall conditions. Broken Bit invites adventure-seekers ready to embrace a route where every move counts and the crux not only challenges but rewards with views and accomplishment in this high-altitude setting.