HomeClimbingBottom Feeder

Bottom Feeder at Murphy's Dome South Face

Deckers, Colorado United States
sport climbing
arete
friction
single pitch
quickdraws
south platte granite
Length: 80 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Bottom Feeder
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A single-pitch sport climb on the distinctive arete of Murphy's Dome South Face, Bottom Feeder offers 80 feet of textured granite with thoughtfully spaced bolts and steady climbing. Positioned in Colorado’s South Platte corridor, this 5.9 line delivers a tactile challenge ideal for climbers building confidence on friction-dependent routes."

Bottom Feeder at Murphy's Dome South Face

Bottom Feeder presents a compelling test of steady focus and technique amid the rugged landscape of Murphy's Dome, located on Colorado’s South Platte corridor. This sport route snakes upward along a distinctive arete, just to the left of a less familiar 5.9 dihedral, offering climbers a sharply defined line carved by nature’s patient hand. The climb unfolds over 80 feet of classic South Platte granite, its coarse texture demanding precise footwork, where each friction hold invites a tactile conversation between climber and rock. Four well-spaced bolts ascend the arete, spacing that encourages calculated movement and a confidence in trusting your feet as much as your hands. As you move higher, the rock leans out slightly, pushing you rightward toward a visible bolted anchor, which is shared with two adjacent routes.

The environment around Bottom Feeder is straightforward—raw, unspoiled granite surrounded by the pine-dusted slopes of Deckers. The approach is short but quiet, depositing you at the base within minutes, a welcome reprieve after any drive from nearby towns. The route’s moderate 5.9 rating makes it accessible to intermediate climbers seeking to sharpen sport climbing skills without the commitment of hefty gear racks or multi-pitch complexity. Quickdraws are essential here, as protection relies solely on fixed bolts affixed deep into the arete’s spine.

Given the route’s sun exposure and air circulation, early morning or late afternoon efforts are best to avoid the mid-day warmth typical of Colorado’s high country. The rock's distinctive grip is at its prime when cool, making hands feel rooted and feet planted with certainty. Descending is a straightforward rappel from the anchor, with a clear line down the face ensuring a smooth exit with no surprises.

Overall, Bottom Feeder exemplifies the grit and straightforward challenge that the South Platte area offers. It’s an ideal choice for climbers wanting a fleeting but rewarding push against clean stone, enhanced by a landscape that feels alive with pine-scented air and whispers from winds brushed down the nearby river corridor. Strong shouldering of shoes, hydration, and a relaxed but attentive mindset will serve climbers well here, preparing them to read each hold with quiet precision and enjoy the steady rhythm of the climb.

Climber Safety

While the protection is reliable, the bolt spacing demands a strong focus on technique and foot confidence. Loose or slipping shoes can result in unexpected falls. Always inspect fixed gear before climbing and approach with caution during high temperatures, as sweaty hands can reduce friction.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start early or late in the day to avoid heat; the granite grips best when cooler.

Wear sticky climbing shoes that accentuate friction; the rock is grippy but requires finesse.

The approach is brief and straightforward but carry enough water—Colorado sun is relentless.

Double-check your rappel setup at the bolted anchor; the descent is simple but always verify.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating fits comfortably with the characteristic South Platte style—relying heavily on friction and subtle edge holds. Climbers may find the spacing of bolts introduces moments requiring confidence in foot placements, which can feel a touch more taxing than pure face climbing at this grade. Compared to similar routes nearby, Bottom Feeder offers a slightly more runout feel but benefits from solid bolts and consistent rock quality.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard sport rack with quickdraws to clip the four bolts protecting the route. The spacing encourages solid footwork and trusting friction holds, so tighten up shoe fit and come prepared for precise movement.

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Tags

sport climbing
arete
friction
single pitch
quickdraws
south platte granite