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Boogie Down at Devil's Kitchen: A Raw Colorado Trad Climb

Grand Junction, Colorado United States
trad crack
aid climbing
multi-pitch
desert sandstone
exposed moves
bolt ladder
loose rock
class 4 downclimb
Length: 90 ft
Type: Trad, Aid
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Boogie Down
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Boogie Down is a rugged two-pitch trad and aid climb tucked into Colorado National Monument’s Devil’s Kitchen. Combining delicate sandy fingers with exposed aid moves, it challenges climbers with its gritty rock and bold exposure—rewarding with wide desert views."

Boogie Down at Devil's Kitchen: A Raw Colorado Trad Climb

Boogie Down commands your focus with a rugged encounter on the sandstone cliffs of Devil’s Kitchen, a striking feature within Colorado National Monument’s vivid red-rock landscape near Grand Junction. This moderate 5.9 A0 trad route stretches 90 feet over two pitches, offering an engaging blend of sandy finger jams, tight hands, and exposed aid moves that push both technique and mental grit.

From the base, the first pitch demands quiet confidence as you climb through soft, sandy holds, moving up 15 feet of face climbing before threading your way through a left-facing corner with tight hand jams. The rock here tests your touch—delicate and loose in spots, requiring careful placements and patience. A sketchy quarter-inch bolt offers a barely reassuring clip, but your best protection lies in traditional gear: stoppers, cams up to a #4 Camalot, and quickdraws for added safety.

Pitch two shifts the experience into a subtle balance of sport and aid. After moving right from the belay, you cruise through 5.7 moves over soft rock toward the summit’s edge, clipping a bolt near the top. Here the views begin to open, revealing sweeping panoramas of the Monument’s rugged terrain. The exposed class 4 downclimb—about six feet—demands steady footing as you navigate a small ledge perched on the edge of the formation.

Perhaps the highlight is the bold reach across the chasm to a detached tower. This crossing puts your nerve to the test, surrounded by open air with only a few pins to protect you. Once on the tower, a six-bolt ladder climb awaits—aid climbing at its core—requiring a #1 Camalot and steady jambs to finish on two drilled angles that secure you to the summit. The payoff is a sweeping perspective that justifies the gritty start.

Gear-wise, Boogie Down requires a fairly full rack balanced between traditional protection and aid-specific pieces. Expect to manage some loose rock and remain alert for subtle holds breaking underfoot. A 60-meter rope covers the descent, which involves a rappel that feels straightforward but demands respect due to scant ledges and exposure.

Timing your climb in spring or fall avoids the intense summer heat baking the sandstone here, while early morning shade on the wall offers comfortable conditions. The approach is short but uneven, crossing rocky terrain that calls for solid footwear and careful footing. Hydrate well and pack for quick shifts in weather common to Colorado’s high desert.

This route suits climbers eager to practice aid techniques with moderate technical climbs peppered throughout. It’s a captivating piece of Colorado National Monument climbing that blends adventurous exposure, traditional crack climbing, and a touch of aid in a compact, rewarding package. Whether you’re hunting for a spirited multi-pitch challenge or a stepping stone to more advanced aid climbs, Boogie Down delivers with grit and spectacular desert vistas.

Climber Safety

Loose rock on pitch one demands attentive gear placement and caution on handholds, while the exposed class 4 downclimb and chasm crossing on pitch two require steady nerves and careful footwork. Double-check your rappel setup on descent; anchors can be minimal.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Aid
Pitches2
Length90 feet

Local Tips

Approach over uneven rocky terrain—wear sturdy shoes with good grip.

Start early to climb in the morning shade and avoid afternoon heat.

Pay special attention to placements on the sandy, fragile rock on pitch one.

Rappel with caution—double check anchors and rope length to avoid surprises.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 A0
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 A0 grading feels true to the rock’s nature, with the free climbing sections testing solid crack and face technique on softer sandstone. The aid moves on pitch two add a technical crux that elevates the overall effort without pushing into higher free climbing grades—ideal for those comfortable mixing aid and trad. Compared to similar routes in Colorado National Monument, Boogie Down sits at a moderate difficulty but requires care due to loose rock and exposure.

Gear Requirements

Pack a standard trad rack including stoppers, cams ranging from 0.75 to #4 Camalot, quickdraws for clipping the sparse bolts, and aid gear for the six fixed pitons and bolt ladder on pitch two. A 60-meter rope handles the rappel.

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Tags

trad crack
aid climbing
multi-pitch
desert sandstone
exposed moves
bolt ladder
loose rock
class 4 downclimb