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Body English: A Solid Trad Climb on Rebel Wall in Clear Creek Canyon

Golden, Colorado United States
left-facing dihedral
bulge
roof
medium rack
belay ledge
spring kayaking views
Length: 90 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Body English
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Body English offers a memorable single-pitch trad climb on Clear Creek Canyon's Rebel Wall. Featuring a striking left-facing dihedral, a challenging bulge, and a roof, it delivers solid protection opportunities and canyon views that reward careful climbing and good gear choices."

Body English: A Solid Trad Climb on Rebel Wall in Clear Creek Canyon

Body English invites climbers to experience a classic trad route carved into the rugged Rebel Wall, just outside Golden, Colorado. This single-pitch climb, stretching around 90 feet, begins with a commanding left-facing dihedral that draws you upward with clean, accessible moves. As you ascend, the rock challenges you with a distinctive bulge and a subsequent roof that demand good technique and focus. While the protection placements are generous, the quality of rock shifts slightly after the crux, urging a more cautious pace through the easier terrain that follows. Moving left beneath a striking overhang, climbers find a spacious belay ledge that opens up sweeping views of Clear Creek Canyon, where kayakers often animate the water below during spring runoff. With a well-established anchor here, it's possible to rappel safely without the extended drop some guides claim; the descent is closer to 80 feet, making this an efficient option for those balancing time and adventure.

Choosing gear for Body English requires a medium-sized rack, emphasizing wires and cams. Hexes come recommended by experienced climbers, as their shape and size complement the crack system well and provide solid, reassuring protection. The approach to Rebel Wall is straightforward, with access trails offering a brief hike through dry, open terrain that sets the tone for the rock-focused outing ahead. Spring and early summer provide ideal conditions — the wall faces generally east, gaining morning warmth but becoming shaded as the day progresses. This makes timing your start advantageous when the air is crisp and rock temperatures are moderate.

Body English offers an approachable challenge for trad climbers with proficiency at the 5.9 level, ideal for adventurers keen to explore canyon climbing founded on solid technique and gear placement. The route balances physical engagement with a manageable length, and the opportunity to extend with the 'Upper Cut' pitch adds a layer for those seeking more sustained movement. Whether you're here to practice precise rack management or to savor the grandeur of Clear Creek’s rocky walls, Body English is a dependable route that rewards attention and respect.

The descent is straightforward but requires care—the rappel is from a reliable anchor with a single rope drop that lands you back on the trail, avoiding hazardous downclimbing or bushwhacking. As you lower off, the canyon’s natural energy buzzes quietly, pairing with the distant rush of water and spring kayakers to create a moment where the rawness of the experience settles comfortably in your mind.

For climbers prepared with mid-sized gear, good footwear, and an understanding of the route’s dynamic protection needs, Body English stands as a rewarding entry into Clear Creek Canyon’s vibrant climbing scene. It’s a route that challenges without overwhelming and offers scenic exposure set against one of Colorado’s most accessible climbing destinations.

Climber Safety

The rock quality above the crux loosens slightly, requiring attentive foot placements and deliberate gear placements. Also, while the rappel anchor is reliable, rope management is essential due to a drop shorter than some guides report.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length90 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the Clear Creek Canyon trailhead with about a 15-minute hike to the base.

Start early spring mornings for ideal temperatures and less trail crowding.

Bring a medium rack and consider adding hexes to expand your protection options.

Use caution on the easier, looser rock beyond the crux and near the anchor.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:At 5.9, Body English sits at the approachable end of the trad difficulty scale but includes a bulge and roof that serve as a meaningful crux. The grade feels fair, not artificially soft, making it a solid test for climbers comfortable with basic crack climbing and gear placement. Compared to other Clear Creek routes, it offers more protection opportunities and less runout than some neighboring climbs.

Gear Requirements

Medium rack recommended, with a focus on wires and cams; hexes fit well for secure placements along the varied crack features.

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Tags

left-facing dihedral
bulge
roof
medium rack
belay ledge
spring kayaking views