HomeClimbingBob's Arete

Bob's Arete: A Sharp Trad Climb on Eldorado Mountain

Boulder, Colorado USA
corner climb
arete
small cams
traditional protection
single-pitch
moderate difficulty
Length: 90 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Bob's Arete
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bob’s Arete offers a compact and technical 90-foot trad climb on Eldorado Mountain. With a tight corner start leading up a sharp arete, it demands precise movement and traditional protection skills in a quiet Colorado crag setting."

Bob's Arete: A Sharp Trad Climb on Eldorado Mountain

Bob's Arete stands out as a compelling single-pitch trad climb on Eldorado Mountain's lesser-known Secret Crag, sometimes called Ridge 6. Approaching this route, you find yourself drawn to the acute angle corner that sits just to the left of the well-traveled Peril-less Journey. The climb demands commitment through slightly awkward moves as you navigate this narrow seam, testing your footwork and balance on the rock’s subtle edges. As you ascend, the corner begins to open, converging with the exposed arete that defines the upper section, inviting climbers to shift focus and manage delicate placements.

This line offers more than just technical moves—it challenges you to read the route carefully, balancing risk and protection. A few bolts from the adjacent Mind Control route come into play if you choose to clip them for added security, but the route mainly relies on traditional gear placements. Protection is straightforward here, yet climbers should anticipate some tricky spots that demand alertness and precise rack selection.

Eldorado’s rugged rock surface provides solid friction, rewarding precise foot placement. The mountain's atmosphere, away from the busier Eldorado Canyon routes, offers a quieter setting where wind stirs the pines below and distant calls of ravens punctuate the air. The climb’s 90-foot length is a perfect introduction to trad climbing on this stretch of the Rockies, compact yet satisfying enough to leave you eager for more.

For climbers planning their day, the approach is short and manageable, threading through forested trails that contour gently up the mountain’s flank. Expect a fifteen-minute hike from the nearest parking, with a steady incline that gives the legs a warm-up. Late spring through early fall is the prime window to experience Bob’s Arete, when stable weather and dry rock conditions prevail. Morning ascents offer cool shade and steady grip, while climbing in the afternoon reveals sweeping light but may bring hotter rock surfaces.

This climb is best suited for those comfortable with a 5.8 rating—considered moderate but with its own quirks. It lacks extended crux sections but requires consistent attention throughout, particularly on the awkward corner start. Bob’s Arete is a solid step up for climbers looking to refine traditional skills on demanding rock, offering an authentic Eldorado experience removed from crowded routes. Proper footwear with sticky rubber is essential for the subtle edges and friction-based moves. Water and layered clothing are musts for comfort since weather in the foothills can shift quickly.

In short, Bob’s Arete offers a focused adventure: a single pitch of engaging climbing that delivers a quiet moment of challenge amidst the wider Eldorado range. With careful preparation and respect for the modest protection, it promises a rewarding experience for those ready to explore Colorado’s classic granite aren’t with practical headspace and clear route beta.

Climber Safety

Protection is adequate but spotty in places; climbers should be prepared for some positions that require creative gear placement. The rock holds well, but the corner’s tight nature calls for controlled movement to avoid awkward slips. Take caution on the upper arete where exposure increases.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length90 feet

Local Tips

Clip adjacent bolts carefully for added security on the upper section.

Wear sticky rubber shoes for optimal friction on subtle foot edges.

Plan your climb for morning shade during warmer months.

Expect a 15-minute hike with a moderate approach trail.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 grade feels straightforward but demands sustained attention due to the awkward corner moves and subtle holds. It doesn’t deliver a single crux section but overall requires solid footwork and careful gear placement, making it suitable for climbers ready to test fundamentals. Compared to nearby Peril-less Journey, Bob’s Arete leans more into technical balance than pure strength.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack recommended, with special attention to smaller cams and nuts to protect the corner and arete. Bolts from adjacent Mind Control may be clipped selectively.

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Tags

corner climb
arete
small cams
traditional protection
single-pitch
moderate difficulty