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Blue Monday: A Crisp 5.9 Sport Climb in Okanagan's Oyster Shell

Cedar Park, British Columbia Canada
crimp
sport
single pitch
technical
fixed anchor
moderate length
Length: 78 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Blue Monday
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Blue Monday offers a focused single-pitch sport climb blending solid holds with a demanding crux. Set in the Oyster Shell area of British Columbia, it’s a prime route for climbers seeking a clean 5.9 challenge within reach of Cedar Park."

Blue Monday: A Crisp 5.9 Sport Climb in Okanagan's Oyster Shell

Blue Monday in the Oyster Shell area offers a sharp, focused sport climb that challenges your precision and endurance on solid rock. Located just outside Cedar Park in British Columbia's Okanagan region, this route invites climbers with one pitch of 78 feet that blends straightforward movement with a technical crux. The climb begins by threading up and right to a high first bolt, requiring a long draw or a careful back clean—setting an early tone of measured effort. Reaching a ledge from here, you prepare to launch into the heart of the climb.

The rock’s texture is generally generous, providing good holds that guide you smoothly towards the crux. This sequence demands attention: a well-protected section where a sharp, in-cut crimp is your key to pulling past the steepest part. After this effort, the grade softens as the wall eases into lower-angle terrain, letting you regain composure on solid footing.

Protection consists of ten bolts leading to a fixed anchor shared with a nearby trad route. While the anchor itself can't be spotted from your last clip, it’s located about three meters straight above, so planning your finish is crucial. This climb’s single pitch makes for a compact yet rewarding experience that suits climbers looking to sharpen their sport climbing skills without committing to the multi-pitch grind.

The surrounding landscape amplifies this climb’s appeal—Oyster Shell's rock juts from the earth with a sturdy presence, set against the Okanagan’s rolling expanse. The area’s moderate elevation and clear air offer a refreshing setting, whether you're approaching early for cooler temperatures or aiming for afternoon climbs when the sun warms the stone. This route is a solid choice for those seeking a reliable challenge on dependable sport bolts, with enough technical intrigue to keep things interesting.

Climber Safety

Watch your clip on the first bolt—its height requires caution to avoid awkward falls. Also, the fixed anchor lies just out of sight above the last bolt, so familiarizing yourself with the finish is important to prevent last-minute scrambling on exposed rock.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length78 feet

Local Tips

Bring a few long quickdraws to easily clip the high first bolt.

Scout the final anchor position before the top for a smooth finish.

Early mornings provide cooler rock and quieter approach trails.

Wear shoes with good edging ability to manage the sharp crimp crux.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating here is firm but fair. The crux revolves around a well-protected, precise move on an in-cut crimp—nothing overly strenuous but demanding solid finger strength and confidence in clip positioning. Compared to other sport climbs in the region, Blue Monday feels a touch more technical than purely strength-based routes, rewarding climbers comfortable on smaller holds.

Gear Requirements

Equipped with ten bolts on fixed hardware leading to a shared anchor. Expect to use long draws or back clean your first bolt carefully. The anchor sits about three meters above the last bolt and isn’t in direct sight.

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Tags

crimp
sport
single pitch
technical
fixed anchor
moderate length