"Blind Mouse challenges climbers with a 90-foot traverse and crack on Eldorado Canyon's West Ridge, blending tricky protection and loose rock concerns. Ideal for those ready to climb tactically while navigating demanding gear placements and a thoughtful descent."
Blind Mouse offers a compelling test of traditional climbing skill on the West Ridge of Eldorado Canyon, a treasured spot just outside Boulder, Colorado. This single-pitch, 90-foot route stands out for its need for attention and careful gear placement amid challenging rock conditions. Though rated 5.8 PG13, it demands respect and a cautious mindset due to loose stone that lurks in key sections. The climb begins beneath the imposing left end of a large roof, where you’ll traverse out to the left, threading your way along the rock while hunting for secure placements amid spotty protection opportunities. Long slings will be your allies here, allowing you to reduce rope drag and manage some of the more awkward gear positions.
As you edge along the route, a notable V-shaped slot—linked to the nearby and slightly harder climb Something Blue (5.9)—comes into view but is safely bypassed by continuing right around the roof's terminus. Here, the climbing pivots back right, following a crack-corner system that leads you to the summit. The top provides a solid belay anchor with a cordalette and multiple pieces safeguarding your position.
The descent is straightforward but requires care—scramble down and move right to reach the fixed rappel slings hanging above the popular Blues Power and Office Girls routes. This section can be loose, so deliberate footing is key. Due to the sensitivity of the rock and proximity to crowded trails below, it’s important to avoid dislodging debris that could endanger other visitors.
Blind Mouse isn't a route for those seeking flawless granite or effortless gear placements. Instead, it offers a tactical climb where alertness and gear savvy meet the rugged personality of Eldorado’s West Ridge. Preparation is essential; bring a full standard rack up to 3 inches, including extended slings for safe anchors and minimizing rope drag. While it features some runouts and less-than-ideal protection spots, it's manageable for climbers ready to engage with a route that requires focus rather than brute force.
Seasonally, spring through fall is the go-to window here. The wall faces mostly west, catching afternoon sun that can warm the cooler stretches of these Rocky Mountain foothills temperature-wise. Keep your approach plans flexible; the path to the route’s base is well-traveled but demands steady footing through a narrow ledge system. Water and sturdy footwear are must-haves for the day, and timing your climb to avoid peak crowds will enhance your experience.
For those willing to embrace the route’s quirks and constraints, Blind Mouse rewards with a distinct slice of Eldorado’s climbing character—a reminder that not every line in this climbing haven is about perfect rock or seamless protection, but rather about the relationship between climber and terrain, attention to detail, and respect for the mountain’s temperament.
Loose rock is a real concern here—careful route-finding and slow, deliberate movement will help mitigate risks. The proximity to popular trails below demands extra caution to avoid falling debris. Gear placements can be tricky, increasing the importance of thorough pro checks.
Avoid dislodging loose rock; it poses a hazard to trail users below.
Use long slings to reduce rope drag along traverses.
Approach early or late in the day to minimize crowding.
Prepare for some small runouts and less-than-ideal protection.
Bring a standard rack to 3 inches, along with several longer slings to manage rope drag and bridge tricky protection spots. Some placements are marginal, so a steady pro collection is critical.
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