"Blackjack offers a focused crack climb in Elevenmile Canyon that starts with a challenging move and settles into rewarding hand jams leading to a solid anchor. Ideal for trad climbers looking for a concise route to practice crack techniques while enjoying the rugged quiet of this Colorado canyon."
Carving through the rugged granite of Elevenmile Canyon, Blackjack presents a straightforward yet engaging trad climbing route that invites climbers to sharpen their crack skills amid a quiet stretch of the South Platte corridor. The climb begins with an awkward move off the ground—an immediate reminder that climbing demands focus from the first step. Once past this initial challenge, the route opens into a middle section that flows smoothly, easily guiding you toward a left-angling hand crack that feels solid underfoot and hand. This crack is the heart of Blackjack, offering secure jams that reward readers' technique with confident upward momentum.
After navigating the crack, climbers reach a comfortable two-bolt anchor, perched about 150 feet above the canyon floor. This anchor point serves well for a solid belay or an efficient top-rope setup using a 50-meter rope. The option to extend the adventure with a second pitch waits for those eager to stretch the route a bit further. Pitch two softens to a low-angle finger and hand crack rated significantly easier at 5.4, climbing toward a large pine tree that marks the upper limit of the route. Here, you can opt to belay or quietly walk off to the right, descending through a cluster of granite boulders back down to the canyon’s floor.
Protection throughout Blackjack leans on medium to large stoppers and cams ranging from 0.5 to 2 inches, emphasizing the importance of versatile rack choices when approaching crack climbs in this area. The gear placements tend to be solid, rewarding patient and precise placement, making it an excellent climb for those developing comfort with offwidth and hand crack protection.
The approach is short and manageable, delivering climbers directly from the parking area into the heart of Arch Rock’s lesser-traveled lines. While the route sees modest traffic—as reflected in its 1.6-star average—the climb offers a rewarding blend of technical engagement without overwhelming risk or commitment. The granite face catches morning light from the southeast, making early starts ideal to avoid afternoon heat, especially in warmer months.
Elevenmile Canyon itself feels spacious and open, with pine-scented air brushing the skin and the sound of distant river flow offering a grounding backdrop to your vertical efforts. Though modest in length, Blackjack’s uncluttered crack sequences make it a worthy stop for classic crack enthusiasts or those looking to hone their skills on approachable trad terrain in the Colorado high country.
Whether you’re building confidence on moderate cracks or adding to your tick list on a crisp day, Blackjack delivers solid rock, straightforward protection, and a quiet setting to enjoy steady climbing without distraction. Pack your mid-sized cams, leave extra water in the car for the dry canyon air, and set your sights on a clean line that moves steadily upward, rewarded by peaceful views and the satisfaction of well-earned jugs and jams.
Be cautious with gear placements on the initial moves, as the awkward start demands secure protection. The pine tree belay on pitch two is solid but double-check slings and anchors before committing. Watch for loose rocks on the approach trail especially after wet weather.
Start early to enjoy cooler granite and avoid afternoon heat.
A 50m rope is ideal for top-roping or linking pitches.
Watch for loose rock near the base during approach.
Use sturdy approach shoes as the hike involves uneven terrain.
Bring medium to large stoppers along with cams sized from 0.5 to 2 inches to protect the various crack widths. Gear placements are generally solid but require careful placement, especially on the first pitch.
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