"Black Lung offers a focused test of slab technique with a steep crux that demands careful precision. This single-pitch sport route combines subtle footwork with sustained 5.10 difficulty on somewhat delicate rock, ideal for climbers ready to dial in their movement on Cedar Park’s Main Wall."
Black Lung stands out on Cedar Park’s Main Wall as a craftily demanding sport climb that tests both precision and composure. From the very first clip, the route invites you into a balancing act—directly off the ground, a technical slab move demands controlled footwork against the subtle texture of the rock. This opening challenge sets the tone, asking climbers to find their rhythm before the terrain eases into a comfortable ramp, a natural rest that feels earned. Then comes the heart of the climb: a steep crux guarded precisely by the fifth bolt. This section’s difficulty is as much about height as technique, where reach and body positioning can tip the scales. Beyond this hurdle, the rock transitions into smoother territory, with enjoyable 5.10 climbing that asks for delicate attention but rewards with a flow that climbers can settle into. Expect about 30 meters of climbing—though measures suggest it might stretch just a bit longer—making it a solid single-pitch experience. Navigating descent requires a 60-meter rope and careful knot-tying to safely rappel down without surprise stops. The fixed bolts and anchor chains provide secure protection throughout, but the somewhat delicate rock texture calls for a mindful approach to movement and gear placement. This climb is right for those looking to sharpen slab skills and handle technical sequences peppered with a crux that’s both physical and mental. Whether you’re topping off the day or building your lead confidence, Black Lung is a memorable line on one of British Columbia’s less-traveled walls that challenges without overwhelming.
The route’s delicate rock texture requires cautious foot placement to avoid slipping or pulling loose holds. The crux is height-dependent, so take extra care to lock off and stabilize before moving out. On descent, ensure knots are tied on your rope ends to prevent getting stuck on the rappel—a 60-meter rope stretch is needed to reach the ground safely.
Inspect footholds carefully and trust your feet on the slab start.
Be prepared for the crux to feel more challenging if you’re shorter in height.
Double-check your knots before rappelling; rope stretch can catch you off guard.
Climb early in the day to avoid sun warming the rock and softening grip.
The route is secured by 11 bolts, terminating in a fixed anchor with chains. A 60-meter rope is essential for the rappel, and tying knots on the ends helps avoid getting stuck. The rock’s somewhat delicate texture means clipping should be smooth but deliberate.
Upload your photos of Black Lung and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.