HomeClimbingBill and Britt One

Bill and Britt One: A Sport Climb in Elevenmile Canyon

Elevenmile, Colorado United States
sport climbing
short pitch
jug holds
loose rock caution
granite
accessible approach
Length: 40 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Bill and Britt One
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bill and Britt One presents a bold 40-foot sport climb blending steep moves with juggy finishes on Elevenmile Canyon’s Springer Gulch Wall. Ideal for climbers eyeing a short, focused challenge with accessible bolts and captivating canyon atmosphere."

Bill and Britt One: A Sport Climb in Elevenmile Canyon

Bill and Britt One unfolds on the Springer Gulch Wall within the rugged cliffs of Elevenmile Canyon, Colorado, offering a straightforward yet engaging single-pitch sport climb. Clocking in at 40 feet, this route begins with a steep section that demands confident movement before easing into a jug-filled finish where the rock's grip feels reassuring underhand. The climb’s setting places it about 100 feet left of the Sunkist Alcove slab and directly adjacent to its sibling, Bill and Britt Two, making it an accessible target for a half-day climbing session or as an introduction to the area’s offerings.

Elevenmile Canyon itself is a rugged playground carved by the South Platte River, providing a landscape where exposure yields to rolling hills and river murmur. As you approach the route, the air hums with the faint rush of water and the rustle of piñon pines lining the canyon walls. The granite here asserts its presence with clean edges and sharp pockets, inviting climbers to probe its surfaces with steady hands and focused feet.

Protection on Bill and Britt One relies on five carefully positioned bolts, fitted to offer smooth clipping and solid security throughout the ascent. However, a notable caution persists near the top: a detached rock, once precariously hanging, was addressed with a thorough clearing—courtesy of local effort—yet vigilance remains essential. Climbers are advised to maintain clear communication with their belayers to avoid hazards in this zone. As such, carrying a pry bar for occasional cleanup or route maintenance can be part of your gear list.

Despite the moderate 5.9 rating, the route presents a blend of technical moves and cruisy holds that balance challenge and accessibility, ideal for climbers ready to push into moderate sport lines without committing to long approaches or multi-pitch logistics. The climb’s brief length makes it a great choice for practicing clipping and clipping on sport routes while savoring the quiet canyon vibe.

Getting to Bill and Britt One involves a short approach from the parking area near Elevenmile Canyon’s main trail. The path descends gently over rocky, well-worn terrain, flanked by dense stands of pines and firs that soften the sun’s glare. Expect about 15 minutes on foot before the wall comes into view, with GPS coordinates 38.930009999999996, -105.42522 pinpointing the starting point precisely.

Timing your climb outside midsummer’s peak heat will enhance your experience; morning and late afternoon sessions bring cooler air and softer light, painting the rock in warm hues. Spring and fall months are particularly pleasant decades for crisp cool temperatures and restrained crowds. As always, thorough hydration, stable footwear with sticky rubber, and a paired climbing partner ready to share the rhythm of the line will elevate both your safety and enjoyment on this route.

In summary, Bill and Britt One invites climbers seeking a concise, steep sport challenge embedded in the wild charm of a Colorado canyon. The blend of juggy ease and technical edging offers a spirited dance on granite, framed by the steady pulse of nature’s elemental forces around it.

Climber Safety

A detached rock near the top once posed a falling hazard but has been cleared after local cleanup. Still, climbers should remain alert, keep the belayer out from beneath that zone, and inspect placements or features cautiously to avoid dislodging remnants.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the main trail and expect about a 15-minute hike to the wall.

Climb early or late in the day to avoid afternoon sun and summer heat.

Watch out for loose rock near the route’s top; clear communication with your belayer is crucial.

Use sticky rubber shoes for better grip on the steep, juggy holds.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Bill and Britt One offers moves that feel solid but precise. The grade is accurate for the steep entry; the juggy finish eases the effort, making it manageable even for those stepping into 5.9 terrain. Compared to other local sport climbs in Elevenmile Canyon, it’s on the moderate side but requires awareness of the loose rock hazard near the top, which adds a mental crux beyond pure climbing difficulty.

Gear Requirements

Bring five quickdraws for the bolted line, and consider carrying a pry bar to clear loose rock near the top. The bolts are well spaced to keep the clipping fluid and gear straightforward.

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Tags

sport climbing
short pitch
jug holds
loose rock caution
granite
accessible approach