"Big Brett the Baker's Buddy offers a brief but solid 5.9 sport climb in Colorado’s San Luis Valley. It’s an ideal warm-up route on a quiet face, combining straightforward protection with approachable moves for climbers tuning up their technique."
Big Brett the Baker's Buddy cuts a clean line on a quiet face tucked within the Rock Garden of Colorado's San Luis Valley. Although brief at 30 feet, this single-pitch sport climb is a practical warm-up that offers a straightforward 5.9 challenge for climbers looking to awaken their fingers without overcommitting. The route occupies a low-traffic side canyon that feels removed from the bustle, where the rock’s texture invites steady hand placements and confident footwork. Anchored by three bolts that ascend the face before meeting a two-bolt anchor shared with the adjacent Wallrus route, this climb showcases both safety and simplicity in its protection setup.
The approach to this route is calm and accessible, providing a quick entry point for climbers visiting the larger San Luis Valley area. The limestone here shows modest features—small edges and crimps—rewarding those who keep their technique sharp and their balance precise. It’s not a climb for those seeking a hardcore test of power or endurance, but its approachable grade and protected nature make it well-suited to climbers warming up or refining their sport climbing skills. Daylight filters softly into the canyon, highlighting the subtle angles and texture shifts in the rock that invite quiet focus.
For anyone planning to tackle Big Brett the Baker's Buddy, timing and preparation are straightforward. Aim for early morning or late afternoon ascents to avoid the midday sun baking the rock, especially in summer months when temperatures rise sharply. Bringing shoes with a snug fit and sticky rubber will help maximize grip on the smaller holds. Hydration is key, as the San Luis Valley sits high, and dry air can sap stamina faster than expected. While the climb itself is short, the surrounding area offers enough rugged character to make the trip worthwhile—standing on the top anchor gives a moment to appreciate the quietude around, the slow-moving clouds, and distant ridgelines pushing the horizon.
The limited number of bolts means clipping efficiently is important, yet the well-spaced protection reassures climbers venturing into this grade. With only eight recorded votes averaging 1.6 stars, it’s clear the climb remains an under-the-radar option rather than a destination classic. Still, its unpretentious nature makes it a solid addition to any day’s climbing lineup, especially when paired with other routes in the Rock Garden area. If you're in Colorado and seeking a short sport climb that rewards technique over brute strength, Big Brett the Baker's Buddy quietly fits that role.
While the bolt spacing is comfortable, the climb’s short length means a fall might result in hitting ledges below the anchor if not careful. Ensure solid clipping and control your momentum on the final moves. Also, be mindful of sun exposure on warmer days during the approach and climb.
Start early or late to avoid hot midday sun on the rock.
Wear sticky rubber shoes to maximize foothold grip on small edges.
Hydrate well—high elevation means dry air and quicker fatigue.
Clip the bolts smoothly to maintain flow on the short pitch.
The climb is protected by three bolts and finishes at a two-bolt anchor equipped with chains, which it shares with the Wallrus route next door. Bring standard sport climbing gear and quickdraws suited for small bolt spacing.
Upload your photos of Big Brett the Baker's Buddy and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.