HomeClimbingBear Jew

Bear Jew: A Classic Quartz Climb in Unaweep Canyon

Grand Junction, Colorado United States
sport
short pitch
granite
good stances
reachable moves
historic flakes
Length: 29 ft
Type: Sport, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Bear Jew
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bear Jew presents a crisp 29-foot sport climb that challenges your balance and reach on solid Unaweep granite. Its clean edges and striking scallop flakes tell a unique story, making this route a rewarding choice for those exploring the Quarry Wall Complex."

Bear Jew: A Classic Quartz Climb in Unaweep Canyon

Bear Jew stands out as a straightforward yet satisfying sport and top-rope climb etched into the rugged granite walls of Unaweep Canyon. From the moment your fingers find purchase on the sharp, sculpted edges, the route offers a tactile experience with the rock’s distinct texture—each bulge and flake a reminder of the canyon’s industrial past. The climb extends just under 30 feet but delivers concentrated moments of technical movement, requiring a few well-measured reaches and steady footwork on stable stances. The rock tells a story in its shimmering scallop flakes, remnants of old dynamite blasts, inviting climbers to engage with both the natural and historical character of the area.

Situated in the heart of the Quarry Wall Complex, Bear Jew anchors itself firmly on solid sport bolts, providing a secure line for those seeking controlled challenges without the commitment of long pitches. The granite here is coarse but reliable, testing your grip and balance as you navigate subtle bulges and face holds that reward precision rather than brute strength. While the route asks you to avoid the chimney feature to fully engage with its intended moves, this directs your attention sharply toward the textured face and its engaging sequences.

Access to the climb is reasonable, with the path weaving through the basal quarry flatlands, framed by the expansive Unaweep Canyon. The location enjoys a mix of sunlight and shade throughout the day, making timing key, especially during warmer months when midday heat can intensify. For safety, climbers should remain aware of loose rock near the base and respect the age of the bolts despite their solid feel.

Bear Jew offers an approachable climb for newcomers to sport routes, while also holding interest for intermediate climbers looking to refine technique on quality Unaweep granite. It provides a snapshot of the area’s diverse climbing options and its blend of history and hard rock, ideal for a quick push or as part of a longer session exploring the Quarry Wall Complex.

Climber Safety

While bolts are reliable, always confirm anchor integrity before climbing. The base area can have loose rock, so maintain situational awareness when approaching or lowering. Avoid the chimney section as it can present unexpected instability.

Route Details

TypeSport, TR
Pitches1
Length29 feet

Local Tips

Avoid using the chimney feature—stick to the face for the full climbing experience.

Keep an eye on the shiny scallop flakes—they mark areas of previous rock blasting and add character.

Time your climb to morning or late afternoon to avoid the hottest sun on the face.

Check bolts for stability, particularly after wet or cold conditions.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating here feels true to the grade with moderate technical moves on solid edges. The crux consists primarily of a couple of long reaches that test precision more than power. Compared to other nearby routes in the Quarry Wall Complex, Bear Jew offers a slightly softer grade but with a unique textured rock that adds variety to the climbing style.

Gear Requirements

This route is protected entirely by bolts. A standard sport rack complemented by a comfortable harness and moderate rope length is sufficient. Bringing quickdraws is essential, and the fixed gear means you can focus on movement rather than placing protection.

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Tags

sport
short pitch
granite
good stances
reachable moves
historic flakes