"Bat Shit Crazy delivers an engaging multi-pitch trad climbing experience at Rainy Day Rock with a mix of crack climbs and exposed sections. Its demanding protection placements combined with runout terrain offer climbers a well-rounded challenge framed by Colorado’s rugged landscape."
Bat Shit Crazy offers a gritty, hands-on trad climbing challenge tucked in the raw terrain of Rainy Day Rock near South Platte, Colorado. This three-pitch route sprawls 220 feet up a rugged face where jagged cracks and rough boulders dominate the scene, inviting climbers to engage directly with the rock’s natural features. The first pitch begins by threading a set of double cracks that lead to a prominent, jutting boulder. This section demands controlled movement and gear savvy, with a solid 5.8 rating that blends technical climbing with runout exposure—so prepare accordingly. Moving upward, the second pitch curves around a series of bulges, ending at a tree-lined ledge. This part channels a feeling of climbing ‘outside the box,’ echoing the nearby technical guanopsychotic flake tunnel but with its own distinct line and personality. Proper placement of larger cams, especially sizes #4 and #5, proves invaluable here. The final pitch takes a subtle detour, placing protection cautiously within the first crack on the right before meandering left to a cleft where a single reliable piece can be placed. Beyond this, the route ventures into more runout terrain, requiring confidence and steady nerves to reach the summit.
The setting itself is rugged but approachable, with a trailhead conveniently located near the Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Campground, making access straightforward though the approach includes rocky, uneven terrain beneath thick forest cover. Expect a 20-30 minute hike before you reach the base, with GPS coordinates placing you firmly within the less trafficked sections of the park. The rock invites tactile interaction—granite feels sharp and solid, but cracks can be tight or irregular, rewarding precise footwork and placement.
Gear-wise, the route calls for a traditional rack emphasizing larger cams to navigate tricky placements on pitch two, while the runout nature of pitch three means you must be comfortable with occasional unprotected moves. Climbers should carry a full set of protection including a #4 and #5 cam, as well as sufficient slings for extended runs. Given the PG-13 rating designation, this climb suits those who combine solid middle-grade skills with an appetite for a mental challenge where fall opportunity is somewhat limited.
Plan to tackle this route during late spring through early fall for the best conditions—Rainy Day Rock’s eastern exposure brings morning sun warming the face, while afternoon shade offers relief on hotter days. Hydration is key, as the approach trail offers limited water sources. Footwear with stiff soles and effective edging capability will improve your grip on the abrasive granite surfaces.
Local climbers often praise this route for its straightforward approach paired with technical climbing that demands respect—this is no casual scramble but a route that rewards preparation and measured risk-taking. The descent involves a careful walk-off down the backside through mixed terrain; it’s not technically difficult but requires attention to footing, especially if the rock is damp or the trail loose.
Whether you’re stepping into the world of multi-pitch trad routes or seeking a concise alpine-style climb with personality and challenge, Bat Shit Crazy offers a unique adventure. Its blend of classic crack climbs, exposed moves, and solid protection opportunities make it an engaging goal that balances adrenaline with savvy climbing strategy.
Watch for tight gear placements on pitch two; unreliable pro could increase fall potential. The runout nature of pitch three requires climbers to be confident with minimal protection and steady movement on somewhat exposed terrain. Approach and descent trails can be slippery when wet.
Approach trail can be rocky and steep; wear shoes with solid traction.
Carry extra water—natural sources near the climb are scarce.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat and enjoy optimal lighting on the wall.
Be prepared for runout on the final pitch; mental focus is as important as physical skill.
Requires a full traditional rack with emphasis on larger cams (#4 and #5) for secure placements on the second pitch. Minimal fixed protection present, so solid gear placements and confidence managing some runout sections are essential.
Upload your photos of Bat Shit Crazy and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.