"Bali Shag combines smooth slab climbing with a bold arete and a technical finger crack finish. This approachable yet exposed single-pitch route in Sheeprock challenges climbers to blend precise footwork with crack jamming under crisp Colorado skies."
Bali Shag stretches across a clean slab of polished rock in Colorado’s renowned Sheeprock area, offering climbers a sharp blend of technical finesse and bold exposure. This single-pitch sport climb demands precise footwork on a slab surface as you navigate a striking arete that juts confidently into the open air. The climb opens with a lone bolt guarding the initial moves onto a solid ledge, inviting you to engage with the rock’s subtle textures before transitioning smoothly to the main face. As your hands search for thinner holds, the route grows more delicate, rewarding you with a sequence that balances balance and strength. Around bolt nine, the crux transitions abruptly but satisfyingly into a finger crack—an unexpected feature that changes the rhythm from slab to jamming technique. Mastercams from #1 to #4 slot firmly into the crack, providing confident protection while you mantling onto a final ledge. Two more bolts lead straight to the chains, where you can catch your breath and soak in the sweeping views of the surrounding canyon. Using a 70-meter rope for the rappel is essential here; the descent requires careful attention to rope ends to avoid any dangerous snags. Sheeprock’s high desert setting brings dry, cold air that sharpens focus and keeps the rock grippy, making the timing of your climb crucial to avoid midday heat. Whether you’re seeking a moderate challenge or an efficient warm-up with a touch of commitment, Bali Shag offers a direct connection with the rock that’s both accessible and rewarding in its straightforward demands.
While the bolts provide steady protection, the slab’s polished surface demands careful footwork to avoid slips. The rappel requires a full 70m rope and careful management of ends to prevent dangerous rope drag or snagging on ledges during descent.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the slab and arete, which can become slippery when hot.
Bring a 70m rope for a direct rappel; shorter ropes may complicate the descent with rope drag.
Mastercams from #1 to #4 are essential to safely protect the finger crack—don't forget these sizes.
Watch your rope ends on rappel—double-check anchors and clear any loose rock before descent.
The climb is protected by 11 bolts and a 2-bolt anchor. Cam placements using Mastercams #1 through #4 are critical in the finger crack section to secure your progress and reduce fall consequences.
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