"AWOL on Helen’s Dome is a straightforward 5.8 trad climb that blends crack and face climbing across two pitches. Rooted in Colorado's climbing heritage, it offers solid granite, manageable protection needs, and scenic alpine surroundings in the South Platte area."
Perched on the west face of Helen's Dome, AWOL — also known by locals as Moss Toss — invites climbers into a slice of Colorado's rich climbing history. This traditional route traces a bold crack system that snakes upward through textured granite, offering a blend of face and crack moves that reward both technique and focus. Beginning at the Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Campground, the climb rises through two pitches, trading casual jamming for subtle face holds as it winds toward the dome’s summit. Its position on Helen’s Dome delivers not only a satisfying physical challenge but also a connection to the early days of Colorado climbing—Tom and Don first ascended it back in the summer of 1971, when protection options were limited to the basics, making every move a thoughtful negotiation with the rock.
The terrain here is classic granite, with a stable, sharp-edged crack that demands mid- to large-size cams. Even the belay stations echo the route’s history; pitons held anchor in the original ascent, but today’s climbers can confidently rely on a full rack up to a #3 Camalot. This mix of crack and face climbing suits those who enjoy variety without overstretching difficulty: rated 5.8, the route is approachable for intermediate climbers looking to sharpen their trad skills in an exposed alpine environment.
The approach begins from the Molly Gulch Campground in the South Platte region. The hike to the base is moderate, threading through forested slopes and rocky stretches over roughly 30 minutes, guided by the sound of rushing water from nearby creeks daring you onward. At 39.18868°N latitude and –105.33495°W longitude, Helen’s Dome stands as a solitary monument overlooking accessible wilderness, with sweeping views framed by evergreen trees dancing in the breeze. After finishing the two technical pitches, an unroped fifth-class scramble takes you to the summit of the dome, from where a straightforward walk-off descends the back side.
For those planning to climb AWOL, timing matters. Morning light hits the west face late, so aim to start mid-morning for warm-up moves and comfortable conditions. Spring through early fall offers the best weather windows, as late winter snow can linger deeper on shaded sections. Comfort on the approach demands sturdy footwear to handle variable terrain, and pack enough water—though the creeks nearby may tempt you, filtration is essential.
Safety on this route centers on solid anchor placement and vigilance around loose rock, especially near belay stations originally equipped with pitons. Modern cams hold well but check placements carefully to avoid any surprises. The modest length and accessible grade make AWOL a prime choice for climbers easing into longer alpine routes, combining historical reverence with hands-on exploration.
In total, AWOL on Helen’s Dome offers a compact but memorable outing. It’s a gateway to Colorado's granite climbing legacy with a practical edge—leaving climbers not just with memories of sharp granite and fresh air, but tangible skill gains and the thrill of standing atop a dome shaped by generations of adventure seekers.
Anchors demand attention here—pitons held belays in the past, but modern climbers should double-check cam placements and clear loose flakes near stations. The approach terrain calls for caution, especially if wet or icy in shoulder seasons.
Start mid-morning to catch ideal sun on the west face.
Wear sturdy hiking shoes for the uneven approach trail.
Pack water and filtration gear—nearby creeks are tempting but untreated.
Inspect cam placements meticulously; rock is solid but can hide flakes near belays.
Bring a standard trad rack up to a #3 Camalot, focusing on mid to large cams for crack placements. Pitons are outmoded here but helped anchor belays originally, so focus on careful pro placements.
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