HomeClimbingAssholes of August

Assholes of August: A Classic Trad Challenge in Skaha

Penticton, British Columbia Canada
crack climb
overhung crux
trad protection
single pitch
granite
Skaha
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Assholes of August
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Assholes of August offers a compact yet challenging trad climb featuring solid jugs and a powerful overhung crux. Situated in Skaha’s Upper Red Tail, this climb delivers technical crack climbing with reliable protection on optimal granite."

Assholes of August: A Classic Trad Challenge in Skaha

Assholes of August stakes its claim as a straightforward yet demanding trad climb carved into the rugged cliffs of Upper Red Tail, within the renowned Red Tail Group of Skaha. This single-pitch route, extending roughly 100 feet, draws climbers keen for a crack climb that demands precision, strength, and solid technique. From the moment your fingers latch onto the generous jugs, the rock invites confident movement, but the pump sets in early—especially on the initial steep overhang that defines the route's crux. Here, sustained effort rewards those who trust their feet and gear placements as the crack twists and opens on good edges. The holds feel alive, pulling you upward with a sharp cut through British Columbia’s vibrant stone.

The climb sits on predominantly clean granite that accepts a wide rack, eager to swallow cams of practical sizes, offering protection for every move. A single bolt marks the start, ensuring some reassurance before the natural gear placements begin their work. At the top, bolted anchors secure a reliable descent. Best approached with steady confidence, the route requires climbers to manage both the physical challenge and their gear meticulously—traditional protection isn’t just preferred; it’s essential.

Reaching the base involves a short, firm approach through the dry forest and scraggly shrubs of the Skaha area. The approach trail is well-worn but steep in spots, demanding solid footwear and focus to minimize energy loss before the climb. Once on the rock, the crack’s angle shifts constantly, teasing out a rhythm from climbers willing to find the sweet spot between power and finesse.

This route doesn’t overstay its welcome but leaves a lasting impression. The exposure is limited, the environment quiet except for the occasional rustle of wind through the trees or distant calls from overhead birds. It’s a spot where preparation matches passion—plan to climb during late spring through early fall when the sun hits the face just right and the rock offers optimal friction. Descending is straightforward but respect the fixed anchors; a controlled rappel or careful downclimb is necessary to conserve energy for the return hike.

With its approachable 5.9 rating, Assholes of August serves both as a proving ground for trad climbers honing crack technique and an accessible taste of Skaha’s high quality granite. It’s not a climb to rush—each move demands respect and focus, especially in the crux’s overhung section. Whether you’re coming for the technical rise or the joy of a well-protected line in a quiet corner of British Columbia, this route combines rugged character with practical ease, inviting climbers to engage fully with their environment and gear knowledge.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock near the start where the bolt is placed. Ensure all placements are secure—while the anchors at the top are bolted, the route expects careful gear selection. Avoid climbing immediately after heavy rain as granite can be slick.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Wear shoes with sticky rubber for optimal grip on granite.

Bring a full rack including cams in sizes .3 to 3 inches for varied placements.

Start early to avoid midday heat; the face gets sun in the afternoon.

Plan for a controlled rappel; don’t attempt downclimbing the entire route.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated a solid 5.9, this climb feels well-graded for those familiar with crack technique. The initial overhang poses a powerful crux that tests endurance, but the remainder rests on sustainable jugs and good footwork. Compared to other Skaha classics, it strikes a balanced difficulty, neither too soft nor overly stiff.

Gear Requirements

This trad route welcomes a full rack of cams spanning small to large sizes. The crack’s width varies, providing secure placements throughout. Note the lone bolt at the start and bolted anchors at the top to aid protection and descent.

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Tags

crack climb
overhung crux
trad protection
single pitch
granite
Skaha