"Artemis delivers a short but engaging alpine trad climb along the McHenry's-Arrowhead ridge in RMNP. Ideal for those seeking solid multi-pitch moves without the time commitment of a full alpine day, this route blends straightforward protection with satisfying granite corner climbing."
Artemis offers an accessible yet rewarding slice of alpine climbing tucked along the McHenry's-Arrowhead ridge in Colorado’s Rocky Mountain National Park. The route begins with two straightforward slab pitches that tip toe up clean rock faces, inviting climbers to set a steady rhythm while taking in the crisp mountain air. Roughly 100 feet to the right of the ridge’s low point, the climbing shifts to a steep, clean corner that commands your full attention. Here, two more pitches weave their way past several overhangs, steadily pushing toward the ridge crest.
Although concise at around 300 feet, Artemis packs a memorable punch typical of high alpine terrain: the granite is solid, the corner features offer varied hand and finger jams, and the exposure rises in harmony with your effort. The character of this piece is practical alpine trad — it’s straightforward, well-protected, and presents a thoughtful challenge without demanding a full-day commitment. Its moderate 5.9 rating makes it approachable for climbers comfortable with multi-pitch trad moves in an alpine setting.
Artemis is a perfect choice when time or conditions don’t favor a lengthy expedition, delivering solid climbing amid a rugged cirque where weather can change rapidly and the mountains command respect. With a standard trad rack, including nuts and cams fitting typical crack sizes, protection placements feel secure, allowing you to balance mental focus with technical movement.
The route’s corner crack is both its spine and highlight, pushing gently against gravity as you ascend. Overhangs add texture, forcing a brief tactical pause before the next pitch, while the final stretch opens up onto the ridge itself, affording sweeping mountain views framed by alpine sounds — the distant chatter of pikas or the whisper of a high valley breeze.
Getting there involves a solid approach within Glacier Gorge, a classic Rocky Mountain National Park area known for alpine rock routes and panoramic vistas. Climbing Artemis rewards those seeking a brief alpine adventure where skill and scenery meet without overextending effort or time.
Watch for rapidly changing weather common above treeline; the approach trail can be slick when wet, and the ridge exposure demands careful movement. Protection placements are solid, but climbers should double-check gear before committing, especially on steeper corner pitches.
Start early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms common in alpine environments.
Wear sturdy approach shoes for the glacier gorge trail—rocky and occasionally slippery.
Keep an eye on forecast—weather can shift rapidly at high elevation.
Descend carefully; the route tops out at the ridge with a moderate walk off.
Bring a standard trad rack covering a range of sizes to protect crack placements comfortably. The clean corner allows for solid pro on cams and nuts; no fixed anchors noted, so carry your own gear for safety.
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