"Armed Knobbery stakes a bold claim on Mariuolumne Dome with its knobby texture and mixed trad-sport style. This single-pitch 5.8 route offers both technical challenges and straightforward protection, perfect for climbers looking to sharpen skills on Yosemite's rugged granite."
Armed Knobbery carves a distinctive line across Mariuolumne Dome's Lost Wall, presenting a route defined by its knobby holds and straightforward ambition. This 85-foot climb blends traditional and sport elements, offering a gritty introduction to Yosemite’s less-traveled granite. From the ground up, climbers confront an exposed serrated flake about 15 feet high, an early test of delicate footwork and precise hand placements. Beyond this, the route rises directly over a wall studded with bold, bulbous knobs that challenge balance and technique as you gain height.
The route's character is shaped by the enormous knobs jutting from the face, creating a unique texture that obliges climbers to adapt their style. Originally ascended with no bolts apart from the anchor, which in hindsight was a risky choice, the addition of three bolts now provides essential security. Protection includes cams ranging from half-inch to 1.25 inches, with an emphasis on narrow-head doubles in the one-inch range to fit the often tight placements. The horizontal crack just above the flake demands a one-inch cam, as flake protection can feel hollow and uncertain.
This climb offers more than physical challenge; it invites a moment to tune into the imposing granite around you and the alpine air that carries quiet whispers from the Tuolumne Meadows below. The approach winds through open granite slabs and sparse tree coverage that hints at the altitude and exposes climbers to sun and wind. Footing on the approach is generally stable but expect a stretch of loose scree closer to the base—nothing overwhelming but enough to warrant solid hiking shoes.
While the 5.8 PG13 rating suggests moderate difficulty, the route’s texture and protection quirks mean climbers should be ready for technical moves and some bold snaps at the knobs. The single pitch condenses the action into a compact, focused experience, making it ideal for those wanting a quick taste of Yosemite unburdened by multi-pitch complexity.
For those planning to climb Armed Knobbery, early morning ascents are advisable to avoid the full afternoon sun hitting the wall and to benefit from cooler granite underfoot. Carry enough water and layered clothing—the high-elevation alpine environment can shift rapidly from warm to brisk. The descent is straightforward: a two-bolt anchor allows a clean rappel back to the base, granting a safe and efficient exit after the ascent.
This route suits adventurers eager to marry traditional protection skills with sport-style security, all while soaking in the vastness of Yosemite’s high country. Armed Knobbery may lack the polished crowd appeal of some Tuolumne classics, but for those who seek personality in their climbs, it offers a climb marked by both challenge and charm amidst a raw granite setting.
Some protection placements can feel insecure, especially the hollow flake near the midsection. Use caution tying off knobs, and inspect all placements closely. Loose scree on the approach calls for firm footing to prevent slips. Rappel with care using the two-bolt anchor to avoid rope damage on the granite.
Start early to avoid strong afternoon sun warming the granite.
Use narrow cams for tight crack placements on the upper section.
Check anchors carefully before trusting hollow flake protection.
Wear sturdy approach shoes due to loose scree near the wall base.
Bring a rack including cams from 0.5 to 1.25 inches, with an emphasis on narrow-head doubles around 1 inch. Three bolts protect key sections, plus a two-bolt anchor for rappelling. Save a 1" cam for the crucial horizontal crack above the flake, as placements there can feel hollow. Knobs may be tied off in some spots if needed.
Upload your photos of Armed Knobbery and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.