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Another Shrubbery: A Compact Alpine Trad with Subtle Complexity

Idaho Springs, Colorado United States
finger crack
flake system
single pitch
alpine granite
two-bolt anchor
moderate crux
Length: 150 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Another Shrubbery
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Another Shrubbery offers a single-pitch alpine trad experience that balances enjoyable finger cracks and flakes with a technical finish. Nestled on Mount Evans’ Girlfriend Wall, this route tests delicate technique and rewards with a memorable crux and flexible descent options."

Another Shrubbery: A Compact Alpine Trad with Subtle Complexity

In the heart of the Girlfriend Wall area, perched on the alpine shoulders of Mount Evans, Another Shrubbery appears deceptively straightforward yet rewards climbers with a blend of creative route-finding and technical nuance. This solitary pitch, stretching roughly 150 feet, starts with two distinct approaches that set the tone for the climb’s character: one follows a narrow finger crack that demands delicate balance and precise hand placements, traversing just beneath a modest roof to link with a system of flakes; the other offers a seemingly gentler face climb option peppered with smaller protection opportunities, welcoming those looking to test their fingertip strength and footwork on classic alpine granite. Both lines merge into a flake system that holds true to its inviting appearance—continuous jugs and edges that feel as navigable as they look—but patience and focus become essential near the top. Here, the flakes compress and steepen, transforming the route’s rhythm and requiring a shift into more powerful moves rated up to 5.9. These closing meters unlock a memorable physical crux where body positioning and composure matter most.

Once past this technical crescendo, the route links seamlessly left to a reliable two-bolt anchor shared with the nearby Knights Who Say Ni climb. For those seeking to extend their run, a straightforward second pitch continues upward with more moderate climbing to the summit of this granite outcrop. Alternatively, rappelling from the anchor offers a swift return to the base. This flexibility in descent and variation in approach reflect the climb’s alpine spirit: a compact journey with options to fit varying skill levels and styles.

The Girlfriend Wall setting provides a raw and often solitary alpine atmosphere, its granite faces catching the morning sun while the surrounding basin hums with sparse wildlife and occasional winds pushing through the thin air. This climb benefits from a clear weather window and a solid rack is essential: a traditional rack fits most needs here, paired with the convenience of fixed bolts for anchors, ensuring that protection stays straightforward. Early season ascents or unexpected weather can turn the slippery granite slick, so timing your climb during dry, calm conditions will preserve both safety and enjoyment.

Plan your approach carefully: a short hike through alpine terrain leads you to the base of the wall, with GPS coordinates placing you precisely for efficient entry. Packing sturdy footwear with sticky rubber and bringing enough hydration is crucial, as alpine altitude saps energy and focus alike. This route rewards climbers who appreciate technical finesse paired with a taste of the wild open mountain environment, offering a perfect gateway into alpine trad climbing on Colorado’s iconic granite.

Climber Safety

Granite near the top becomes steep and smooth, increasing the risk of slips especially if damp. The two-bolt anchor is solid but positioned on a ledge that demands caution when setting up. Approach is straightforward, but altitude can affect endurance and decision-making.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches1
Length150 feet

Local Tips

Start from the right for an easier face climb with small pro placements.

Be prepared for a short but physical crux near the top rated 5.9.

Check weather and wait for dry conditions to avoid slippery granite.

Hydrate well and use sticky-soled climbing shoes for best friction.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating feels fair, with the crux near the top nudging the difficulty briefly into 5.9 territory. Overall, it offers a well-balanced challenge without overstating its grade. Compared to other nearby alpine trad routes, Another Shrubbery is accessible but requires careful technique on the finger crack start and confidence on the flake moves.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack covers the protection requirements, complemented by a two-bolt anchor at the pitch's top. Small cams suit crack and face protection early, while medium gear fits well in the flake system. Fixed bolts simplify anchors and reduce approach gear load.

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Tags

finger crack
flake system
single pitch
alpine granite
two-bolt anchor
moderate crux