HomeClimbingAnother One Bites the Dust

Another One Bites the Dust: A Challenging Trad Route on Buffalo Shoulder Buttress

Haines Junction, Canada
trad climbing
corner crack
chimney
double ropes recommended
fixed anchors
multi-pitch
loose talus descent
Length: 600 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
5
Location
Another One Bites the Dust
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Another One Bites the Dust is a five-pitch trad challenge on Yukon’s Buffalo Shoulder Buttress, blending solid corner climbing with a wild, alpine backdrop. Expect technical moves, variable protection, and a descent that rewards careful planning."

Another One Bites the Dust: A Challenging Trad Route on Buffalo Shoulder Buttress

Perched on the rugged face of Buffalo Shoulder Buttress in the remote wilderness near Haines Junction, Yukon Territory, "Another One Bites the Dust" offers an immersive trad climbing experience blending solid technique with a raw, untamed landscape. Stretching 600 feet over five pitches, this 5.9 route demands both commitment and careful preparation. The climb slices through a series of clean corner systems, separated by broad, sloping ledges that provide natural rest points and striking vantage points to drink in the vast northern expanse.

The approach carries you west from the parking area along a well-marked trail that skirts beneath the imposing cliffs. After thirty minutes, the trail gives way to a boulder field marked with vibrant pink and orange flagging, guiding you to the base. The final fifteen minutes push through dense stands of spruce to reach the large, right-facing corner that signals the route’s start.

From the outset, the climb offers a steady blend of moderate, engaging moves with occasional cruxes that test your technique and mental toughness. Pitch one provides an approachable 5.7 introduction with an inviting corner and stepped ledges; for those aiming to save time or conserve energy, scrambling offers a viable alternative here. Pitch two shifts gear up to a 5.8 layback corner, requiring fluid movement and precise footwork as juniper bushes pick out the climbing line. The third pitch serves as a breather, with a 5.6 rating and easier slabby steps that give the hands a rest before the sustained efforts ahead.

Pitch four is the route’s heart and crux, rated 5.9. Here the rock tightens, pushing upward through a steep bulge and into a dramatic horizontal roof. It’s the chimney section beyond this feature that demands your full focus, requiring a squeeze and scrunch maneuver through a constricted slot where larger cams become essential for protection. Emerging from the chimney feels like breaking through a curtain of shadow into sunlight, revealing a ledge where you can pause and breathe in the remote mountain air. The final pitch cuts right into a left-facing corner and then up a steep crack, wrapping up an ascent that rewards climbers prepared for both mental grit and technical challenges.

Protection is primarily traditional, supported by fixed anchors—bolts and a well-established tree belay—simplifying routefinding and descent, though a doubling of mid-sized cams and a solid rack up to BD #4 is strongly recommended. Double ropes improve security during the rappel off the route, as a straightforward walk-off isn’t reliably practical given the terrain’s loose talus and narrowing ridgeline.

The setting is consistently dramatic. The stark rock walls frame sweeping views across the expansive Yukon wilderness, where every gust of wind and rustle of spruce branches feels alive, challenging you to keep pace with the mountain. The route’s name nods to its reputation: gear lost here is common, reminding all who climb to respect the rock’s relentless grip and to be prepared for unforgiving moments.

Timing your climb is crucial; summer months offer the safest and most stable conditions, with long daylight hours and less risk of sudden weather shifts. Early starts help avoid afternoon winds and maintain cooler rock temperatures, enhancing grip and comfort. Footwear with sticky rubber and solid edging support will serve you well, as will hydration and a keen sense of situational awareness.

Descent is by rappel using the fixed anchors. Attempting to walk off via the ridge demands caution due to loose rock and trail-finding challenges. Following pink flagging tape can guide you, but this option suits those with solid scrambling skills and an eye for terrain hazards.

For those who appreciate trad routes with a rugged edge and aren’t afraid of a few lost water bottles along the way, "Another One Bites the Dust" delivers a compelling Yukon climbing adventure—equal parts technical challenge and wild beauty. It's a climb that rewards focus, planning, and respect for the capricious mountain environment.

Climber Safety

Loose rock and rolling talus on the descent require careful footing. The approach and exit traverse boulder fields and steep ledges—good footwear and cautious routefinding are critical. The chimney on pitch four may need larger cams for secure placements; avoid overcrowding anchors to reduce gear loss risk.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches5
Length600 feet

Local Tips

Start early in the morning to avoid afternoon wind and keep rock cool for better grip.

Mark your route carefully—flagging and fixed anchors help, but attention to cairns and terrain is essential.

Bring double ropes to manage complex rappel anchors safely.

Hydrate well and pack for sudden weather changes common in Yukon alpine environments.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.9, the climb includes a solid crux on pitch four involving a steep bulge and squeeze chimney that demands precision and power. The grade feels consistent with other northern Yukon trad routes, with varied protection and some sustained sequences making it a worthy challenge for climbers comfortable with mid-grade cracks and chimney techniques.

Gear Requirements

A complete trad rack with doubling on mid-sized cams up to BD #4 is critical. Double ropes improve rappel safety. Fixed anchors and a tree belay simplify descents, but bring a cordalette to secure anchor points.

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Tags

trad climbing
corner crack
chimney
double ropes recommended
fixed anchors
multi-pitch
loose talus descent