"Allrete traces a striking west-facing arete on the Third Triangle of Lookout Mountain, blending easy, airy climbing with a single challenging overhang. Perfect for those eager to practice multi-pitch trad technique near Golden, Colorado."
Rising boldly along the west-facing edge of the Third Triangle on Lookout Mountain, Allrete stitches together a series of sharp ridges that draw the eye from the approach trail below. This trad climb offers two pitches of varied character: an approachable upper pitch crowned with a thrilling, moderate overhang, and lower pitches that challenge climbers with their hidden grime and learning opportunities on multi-pitch trad systems.
As you step onto the base ledge beneath the Third and Second Triangles, the rock underfoot shifts from stable slab to sprawling patches of lichen and dirt—an indicator that these lower pitches see less traffic and demand attention to gear placement more than pure athleticism. The upper pitch, light-colored and inwardly visible from afar, catches the warmth of the sun, promising a reward beyond its modest 5.4 rating. Here, the climbing is airy and deliberate, exposing you to expansive views and the tactile thrill of edge climbing.
The standout feature is a solid 5.8 overhang, anchored by a well-placed bolt that guards the crux. A locking biner is recommended here for peace of mind as you swing around this pinch-y lip, a move that feels bold but within reach for climbers comfortable on moderate terrain. The rest of the arete above eases back to 5.4, inviting you to savor the exposure and variety of holds as you reach the summit anchor.
Approaching Allrete requires a bit of commitment. Most climbers prefer to descend via a single, long rappel from the bolted anchors, dropping to a small tree perched on the edge of the Front Triangle below. From there, a second rappel deposits you back to the rubble-strewn base. This descent offers another chance to observe the scale and layered complexity of Lookout Mountain's distinctive triangular formations.
While the lower pitches present moderate difficulties and excellent practice for multi-pitch traditional skills, the heavy presence of lichen and dirt makes them less inviting to most. The rock beneath, however, is generally sound, providing plenty of solid gear placements in cracks and on the arete itself. Avoid wandering onto the west-facing slabs where loose rock and debris create a climbing hazard and downgrade the route into mere scrambling.
Allrete’s beauty lies in its accessible challenge—offering a mellow introduction to exposed climbing with the spice of a single crux move and the chance to build anchors on clean, reliable cracks. The route beckons climbers who want to sharpen trad technique close to town, offering the rare chance to combine light alpine exposure with straightforward gear requirements. Whether you opt to lead both pitches or simply toprope the upper arete, Allrete rewards patience, steady footwork, and a taste for airy rock.
Preparation is key. Bring a gear rack scaled up to a #3 Camalot if you plan to climb the entire route, or scale back to a #2 for focusing on the upper pitch. Two ropes will make rappelling smoother. Keep an eye on the weather—this west face dries quickly but can become slick after rain, and the route’s exposure means wind can be a factor.
In sum, Allrete is an ideal outing for climbers based in Golden, Colorado seeking an engaging trad climb that combines ease, exposure, and technical variety. This line rewards those who appreciate a thoughtful climb without the pressure of maximum difficulty, framed by Lookout Mountain’s raw, natural character.
Be cautious of the extensive lichen and dirt covering the lower pitches, which reduce friction and obscure holds. Avoid venturing onto the west face, where loose rock and debris present a clear hazard. Use extra care clipping the bolt on the overhang; a locking biner is recommended for added security.
Toprope the upper pitch if not comfortable with multi-pitch leads.
Avoid the west face due to loose rock and debris hazards.
Rappel from the top anchors to the mid-tree, then continue down for a safe descent.
Check weather ahead—wet or windy conditions increase risk on the exposed arete.
Bring a trad rack sized up to a #3 Camalot for full route coverage. The upper pitch can be climbed with gear to a #2 Camalot. One bolt protects the crux, so a locking biner is helpful for secure clipping at the overhang. Abundant natural gear placements along the arete make good protection available throughout.
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