HomeClimbingAlimony Cracks

Alimony Cracks: A Direct Line to Yosemite’s Classic Trad Challenge

Tuolumne Meadows, California United States
trad
crack climbing
single pitch
Yosemite granite
moderate grade
rappel descent
Daff Dome
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Alimony Cracks
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Alimony Cracks offers a focused trad climbing experience on Daff Dome’s south flank, where a short, steep 5.8 section leads into easier cruising crack climbing. It’s a concise route blending technical moves with practical protection, perfect for climbers seeking Yosemite’s granite in manageable doses."

Alimony Cracks: A Direct Line to Yosemite’s Classic Trad Challenge

Standing before Alimony Cracks, you face a striking sheer wall on the south flank of Daff Dome, inviting climbers to test their skills on one of Tuolumne Meadows' more approachable trad lines. This route unfolds along two parallel cracks, with the left crack providing a clear, direct path up a granite face that commands respect without overwhelming. Right from the start, the climb challenges you with a short but steep section rated 5.8—the crux that demands precise hand jams and steady footwork amid the cool, rough stone. Beyond this, the rock eases, offering more moderate moves that let the rhythm of the climb settle in as you gain height. The crack’s texture brushes against your fingers, while sparse tufts of alpine vegetation cling nearby, lightly rustling in the mountain breeze. Above, the bolted rappel anchor marks your finish, a solid reminder of the descent that awaits.

Approaching the climb requires a brief but purposeful hike through the open, rocky terrain of Daff Dome’s southern face, where the towering granite absorbs the sun's warmth mid-morning. The clarity of the setting allows views stretching across the meadow and into forested valleys, connecting you to the vastness of Yosemite’s wilderness even as you focus on your next moves. Carry a light rack with protection up to 3 inches wide—the crack’s width fluctuates, but larger cams usually cover placements safely and straightforwardly. After topping out, two rappels will return you to the base with a single 60-meter rope. The second rappel, nearly 100 feet long, requires caution—this is no casual descent. Climbers who prefer to avoid rappelling can also set up a top rope on a neighboring line called Fingertips from the lower anchor.

Whether you’re honing trad skills or seeking a taste of Tuolumne’s granite offerings, Alimony Cracks provides a brief, satisfying sting of adventure. Its straightforward approach belies the focus needed on the harder section, encouraging climbers to prepare adequately with solid placements and careful footwork. Given the route’s easier grade compared to many Yosemite classics, it fits perfectly into a day of exploring Daff Dome’s diverse granite faces, balancing adrenaline with accessible terrain.

Timing your climb to late morning or early afternoon ensures the sun has warmed the rock enough to dry any lingering moisture but still keeps the face shaded from the harshest midday glare. Pack hydration and snacks, as the approach and climb combined can consume several hours with a thoughtful pace. The quiet of this less-traveled part of Tuolumne Meadows adds a contemplative quality to the experience, allowing you to hear the granite’s subtle creaks and the faint whisper of wind weaving through the high alpine trees.

After topping out, take a moment to savor the connection between effort and landscape—granite anchored solidly beneath your hands, the meadow spread wide below, and the mountains circling silently in the distance. Then gear up for the descent, where attention to detail remains just as crucial. The lengthy rappel demands a double-check of knots and rope thread; missteps here can turn a memorable climb into an unnecessary challenge.

Alimony Cracks rewards climbers who come prepared: with steady hands, focused mindfulness, and respect for the timeless granite. It stands as a clear invitation from Yosemite to experience trad climbing’s essential elements in a compact, compelling package.

Climber Safety

Pay close attention during the second rappel: it requires a full 100-foot descent to reach the ground, with no intermediate stations. Ensure your rope is properly threaded and double-checked to avoid errors on this long drop. The rock is solid but can be cool and slightly slick early in the day, so approach the steep crux carefully.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Start the climb mid-morning for optimal warmth on the granite.

Double-check your rappel setup—the second rappel is a full 100 feet and requires care.

Consider top-roping the neighboring Fingertips route from the lower anchor for added variety.

Wear climbing shoes with a snug fit for precise jamming in the steep crux crack.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating here feels true to grade, with the crux offering a brief surge in difficulty that demands clean technique but isn’t overwhelming. The remainder of the route relaxes into easier climbing, making the overall effort approachable for intermediate to confident trad climbers. Compared with other Tuolumne crack climbs, Alimony Cracks sits on the friendly end of the spectrum, suitable for strengthening crack skills without overreaching.

Gear Requirements

A light rack with cams up to 3" covers the variable crack width comfortably. Protection is straightforward with solid placements in the steep crux section and easier terrain above.

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Tags

trad
crack climbing
single pitch
Yosemite granite
moderate grade
rappel descent
Daff Dome