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Alex's Tower: A Compact Test of Stealth and Skill on Unaweep Granite

Grand Junction, Colorado USA
finger crack
hand jams
short climb
granite
technical
anchor bolts
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Alex's Tower
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Alex's Tower offers a brief but exacting trad climb on sharp Unaweep granite. Perfect for climbers eager to focus on hand jams and crack techniques while soaking in the wild, dry canyon atmosphere."

Alex's Tower: A Compact Test of Stealth and Skill on Unaweep Granite

Alex's Tower presents a focused slice of technical trad climbing carved directly into the stark, rugged granite of Unaweep Canyon. Situated in the Lower Mother's Buttress area, this brief 50-foot route demands precision more than endurance, offering a climb that’s all about subtle hand jams and quiet movement rather than length or overwhelming exposure. The ascent begins with a sequence of hand jams that pull you upward to a roomy, sunlit ledge, a vantage point that offers a moment to tune into the profound stillness that surrounds the canyon’s steep walls. From here, you skirt around the right side of the tower, easing into a finger crack that beckons with solid holds and generous ledges. This final section challenges climbers to stay deliberate, balancing finesse with the tactile feedback of Unaweep’s coarse granite.

Unlike some routes in the Grand Junction area that stretch for multiple pitches, Alex's Tower’s single-pitch profile rewards climbers who seek a condensed, skill-focused experience. The absence of a traditional fixed anchor was a notable drawback but recent updates have added a two-bolt anchor at the summit, offering a safer and more convenient top-out or rappel option. Protection typically calls for small to hand-sized cams and nuts, with placements that demand close attention but provide stable security when set properly. The rock quality is tough and clean, with few surprises beyond the usual flake and crack texture that defines Unaweep’s climbing.

Access to the Lower Mother's Buttress places you among a quiet, lesser-trafficked corner of the canyon, where the landscape stretches wide and dry, punctuated by the grandeur of vertical granite faces. The approach, manageable and well-marked, allows enough time to warm up on easier climbs before committing to the more technical moves that Alex's Tower demands. Because the climb is short, it invites a tactical mindset—gear up for precision, keep your movements controlled, and pick your moments to rest on the generous ledges.

In practical terms, timing your climb during cooler morning hours helps avoid the harsh sun that bakes the rock in the afternoon. Though the length underwhelms some climbers, the route’s character lies in its fine-grained challenges and the quiet solitude of the canyon’s rock bowl. Climbers drawn to crack climbs with straightforward protection will find Alex’s Tower a worthwhile stop, particularly if paired with other nearby lines to round out a day of climbing without requiring significant approach or descent logistics.

Preparation is simple but essential: a modest rack of cams and nuts, a calm focus on hand jams, and an appetite for clean granite climbing. The added bolts at the top provide peace of mind on rappel, a bonus in an area where natural anchors can be sparse. This route isn’t about long haul or lofty exposure, but about technique honed sharp and rhythm with the rock beneath your hands.

For those chasing a grounded taste of trad climbing in Colorado’s Grand Junction region, Alex’s Tower delivers a crisp, technical tick. It invites you to lean into the subtle conversation between body and stone, and to experience a small but satisfying quarry of climbing in one of the Southwest’s defining granite escarpments.

Climber Safety

Be alert to the lack of fixed anchors historically; now the two-bolt station eases rappel safety but always confirm anchor integrity before descent. The short ledges are stable but exposed, so careful footwork is key during transitions.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Approach early in the day to avoid the afternoon sun heating the rock.

Bring a light but thorough trad rack focused on smaller protection sizes.

The ledges provide comfortable rest spots; use them to pace your climb.

Double-check your anchor before rappelling since the route now has fixed bolts.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8- rating feels approachable but demands thoughtful hand jam technique and controlled movement. The grade is generally true with no unexpected crux, making it suitable for climbers aiming to refine crack skills in a concise setting. Compared to other climbs in Unaweep Canyon, it leans toward the easier end but carries enough detail to keep attention focused.

Gear Requirements

A precise rack of small to hand-sized cams and nuts will serve best here. Recent two-bolt anchor installed at the top improves safety on rappel.

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Tags

finger crack
hand jams
short climb
granite
technical
anchor bolts