"Alabama Crack invites climbers into the heart of traditional crack climbing just off the Nose’s famed line. With two pitches of hands-on jamming and subtle challenges, the route offers a rewarding venture for those ready to engage classic techniques within a flexible approach."
Alabama Crack offers a grounded introduction to traditional climbing just off the more famous Nose route within North Cheyenne Canyon. This two-pitch adventure unfolds over 180 feet of crack climbing that demands technical finesse and thoughtful gear placements. Starting from the slab beneath the Nose roof, climbers can opt for two distinct approaches: either ascend and veer left beneath the prominent flake to reach a solid belay shelf or tackle the gully below the crack, moving right past aging fixed Harvey pitons. Both routes converge at the same ledge, where a recently installed two-bolt rappel anchor marks a good turnaround point.
The crack itself is a striking line—about 50 feet of jamming that feels straightforward but keeps you honest with occasional tricky placements. For protection, a standard rack working up to a #4 Camalot will cover the range of gear needed here, including quickdraws to clip several fixed pins peppered along the route. While the grade sits at a classic 5.9, the route's rating carries a slightly firm edge, with a crux that announces itself quietly but requires steady hand jams and body positioning to move smoothly.
Climbing Alabama Crack means immersing yourself in the gritty texture of the rock, with occasional pockets of exposure where loose blocks remind you to stay vigilant—particularly above the rappel anchor where rockfall danger is real enough to warrant caution. This risk encourages many to limit their climb to the anchor for safety’s sake, making the descent straightforward and secure.
The surrounding landscape, dominated by Colorado Springs’ rugged foothills, adds quiet grandeur without overwhelming complexity. North Cheyenne Canyon’s forested trails ease the approach, making this climb accessible yet rewarding. The proximity to town means quick access, but the route retains a sense of solitude, bathed in afternoon sun which highlights the warm hues of the sandstone.
Before you head out, pack a helmet to guard against falling debris, bring protective gloves for the crack jams, and consider timing your climb for mid-morning to early afternoon to avoid intense shadows and damp rock. With a moderate approach and solid protection, Alabama Crack offers a balanced climb that welcomes both trad novices and seasoned climbers seeking a reliable classic with a tangible connection to the rock.
Loose blocks located above the rappel anchor create a real rockfall hazard—strong helmets and hesitation at this point are advised. Avoid climbing beyond the anchor unless you are comfortable managing this risk.
Be cautious of loose rock above the two-bolt rappel anchor—consider topping out here.
Start from the slab beneath the Nose roof for a cleaner approach to the crack.
Wear gloves to protect your hands during sustained jamming sections.
Climb mid-morning to early afternoon for optimal sun and dry rock conditions.
Bring a standard trad rack topping out at a #4 Camalot. Quickdraws are useful for clipping a few older fixed pins. Helmet recommended due to loose blocks above the final belay.
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