"Airport Tower demands more than just technique—it tests your resolve on loose sandstone with sparse protection and intense exposure. This two-pitch trad route in Colorado National Monument offers an authentic challenge for climbers seeking raw, unfiltered adventure off the beaten path."
Airport Tower stands apart in the Colorado National Monument with a rugged, uncompromising presence that challenges both skill and resolve. Sitting in the Crack of Noon Tower sector, this two-pitch classic trades finesse for raw grit, where climbers confront sheer vertical sand and questionable holds that stretch the limits of traditional protection. There’s little room for comfort here—each move demands focus as the rock strains trust and the rack calls for your smaller cams, often slipping into faces of loose stone. Approaching the climb, the top offers a plateau that earned the route its nickname, yet warns of a descent shrouded in uncertainty, with chopped bolts wiping away all but the most creative exit strategies.
The climb’s 250-foot length splits into two demanding pitches, both bracketing 5.9 difficulty with an R rating highlighting the runout sections that will keep your heart beating and muscles burning. This isn’t a route for casual adventurers; the exposure tests not only your climbing but your calm. The route’s notorious 'fraid' moments, where grips feel more like desperate clings, provide a palpable tension rare in even the Monument’s wild offerings. Protection demands a Scottish rack with doubles to a #4 cam, focusing on smaller gear placements that will challenge your traditional aid instincts and demand precision.
Beyond the technicalities, the setting amplifies the experience. The towering walls of Colorado National Monument rise sharply, their sunbaked hues and dust-blown edges framing your ascent with vivid contrast. The cracked sandstone, while beautiful, is unforgiving—reminding climbers to respect both the rock and the route. The top’s wide flat expanse is where past adventurers once unfurled a 70-foot slackline, hinting at a playful spirit now shadowed by the removal of bolts that once guarded the descent. Descending now requires a blend of improvisation and courage, as standard anchors no longer exist, demanding careful planning or a willingness to embrace the unknown.
This route, infamous for its relentless exposure and tricky protection, doubles as a rite of passage for those craving a genuine mental and physical challenge. It’s a stark contrast to more polished locales, offering an immersive encounter with the Monument’s raw character. Climbers must come prepared—not only with the right gear but with steady nerves, a prudent eye on weather, and respect for this austere landscape. In many ways, Airport Tower stands as a reminder that climbing sometimes means surrendering ease for the thrill of an unvarnished encounter with vertical rawness.
Loose, vertical sand ingrains a high risk of gear slippage; rely on precise placements in solid cracks. The removal of descent bolts demands caution and a clear plan for retreat, as downclimbing or rappelling from unreliable anchors increases hazard. Avoid climbing after rain as wet sandstone becomes treacherously slick.
Wear sticky-soled shoes to maximize grip on loose sandstone.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat and strong sun exposure.
Check the weather forecast carefully—high winds can worsen exposure.
Plan your descent thoroughly; the original bolts have been removed.
Bring a Scottish rack doubled to a #4 Friend, focusing on smaller cams for tricky placements in vertical sand. Expect limited fixed gear and prepare for runouts that demand solid anchor building skills.
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