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Age of Addiction: A Focused Sport Climb in Alabama Hills

Lone Pine, California United States
sport climbing
granite
single pitch
bolted anchor
technical moves
desert environment
Length: 60 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Age of Addiction
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Age of Addiction is a concentrated 60-foot sport climb in California’s Alabama Hills that tests precision and focus on solid granite. This well-protected route offers a sharp climb with dependable bolts and a memorable crux, perfect for climbers seeking a balance of challenge and accessibility."

Age of Addiction: A Focused Sport Climb in Alabama Hills

In the heart of California’s Alabama Hills, the Age of Addiction route offers climbers a concentrated shot of vertical challenge amid a rugged landscape where granite boulders rise sharply under open skies. This one-pitch sport climb, stretching a compact 60 feet, demands precise movement and attention as you thread your way up a bolted line just right of the Original Route on the Western Wall. From the ground, the rock looks sharp and unyielding, but once you’re moving, the holds reveal themselves as solid and thoughtfully placed, lending a reassuring grip during the climb’s most technical sequences.

The approach to Age of Addiction is straightforward, cutting through the open desert terrain scattered with scrub and sun-baked stones. The area’s dry air carries a subtle warmth, and a breeze often ripples across the granite as if nature itself is testing your resolve. The vertical lip you ascend is marked by five well-spaced bolts leading directly to a two-bolt anchor, making protection straightforward but requiring trust in your clipping pace and efficiency.

The route is rated 5.10a, positioning it as a moderate test for sport climbers looking to sharpen their technique without the complexity of multiple pitches. The crux lies near the midsection, where good quality rock forces you to engage both hands and feet with precision. Unlike longer climbs demanding stamina over distance, this route demands concentrated focus and nimble footwork. The Sierra Eastside’s sharp sunlight can warm the rock quickly, so early morning or late afternoon ascents optimize comfort and grip.

Given its compact nature and proximity to Lone Pine, Age of Addiction is an accessible option for those seeking a quick but satisfying climb amid a classic climbing backdrop. The Alabama Hills offer expansive views of the Eastern Sierra peaks that seem to push toward the sky, reinforcing a sense of timeless challenge. Despite its approachability, the climb reveals enough complexity to keep your attention locked on the rock and your movements deliberate.

Preparation is key here: bring shoes with solid edging ability, chalk to maintain grip in the drier climate, and approach the route rested and ready to focus. Water and sun protection are a must; the desert environment doesn’t forgive lack of hydration or shielding. In total, the route demands respect in its crisp climbing style and the natural setting that surrounds it—rough, exposed granite etched by wind and sun.

Age of Addiction is perfect for climbers who want to engage intensely with a single pitch, offering clear beta and trusted protection bolted into an iconic landscape. The climb’s straightforward accessibility paired with its punchy 5.10a moves crafts an experience that’s both grounded in adventure and practical for approachable sport days in the Alabama Hills.

Climber Safety

While the bolts are solid, the climb is exposed to sun and wind, which can dry out your skin and grips quickly. Ensure proper hydration and avoid climbing late in the day when temperatures drop abruptly. The approach terrain can be uneven; watch your footing on the trail.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start climbs early to beat the heat and maximize grip on the granite.

Wear shoes with firm edging for the technical rock sequences.

Bring plenty of water and sun protection; shade is limited on the wall.

Check the anchor and bolts before climbing; while well-maintained, routine gear inspections are important.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a grade presents a respectable challenge that feels true to its rating, with a crux near mid-route that requires controlled body positioning and precise holds. Compared to nearby routes in the Western Wall area, Age of Addiction offers a less sustained but sharper burst of climbing finesse.

Gear Requirements

The climb is secured by five bolts leading to a two-bolt anchor. Quickdraws for each bolt and a sturdy personal anchor system are essential. Protection is straightforward with reliable bolt placements, making gear decisions simple and efficient.

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Tags

sport climbing
granite
single pitch
bolted anchor
technical moves
desert environment