Trad
Bishop, California United States
"Africa Flake offers a balanced trad challenge in Pine Creek Canyon with a mix of hand cracks, liebacks, and a dynamic face traverse. This two-pitch climb blends accessible crack climbing with a sharp 10a crux, perfect for those refining their crack and face skills in a stunning Eastern Sierra setting."
Africa Flake stands out as a compelling trad route tucked within the sharp granite corridors of Pine Creek Canyon, in California’s Eastern Sierra. The line begins with an accessible but engaging 5.8 hand and finger crack that leads comfortably to a bolted belay platform, setting an inviting tone for the climb ahead. For those seeking a variation, the first pitch of the adjacent “Duct Taped Plum” provides an alternate start to the same belay, introducing a subtle route choice early on.
The second pitch evolves into a varied puzzle of liebacks and crack climbing that tests both technique and mental focus. The left-facing flake beckons climbers to lean in and apply steady pressure, rated around 5.7 to 5.8, before a careful move right transitions you into a pair of flared, double seams. These flares demand sustained effort around 5.10a, where well-placed BD C3 cams can make the difference between controlled moves and over-gripping. Approaching a short roof, the route intensifies: a bolt anchors the key crux where a bold pull through 10a climbing opens onto an exposed face.
After clipping the initial roof bolt, the line angles right across the granite face at 5.9, encouraging climbers to stay fluid while maintaining composure. A second bolt lies in wait, securing this traverse before the climb finishes with delicate moves up the final cracks of “Duct Taped Plum.” This pitch’s variability ensures each ascent feels distinct — some may find pockets and holds better suited to their style, while others will enjoy the challenge of sustained crack work.
Descending is straightforward but demands attention. A single 60-meter rappel takes you back to the initial belay, followed by a second rappel down to the base. With a standard rack featuring doubles of cams to negotiate the tighter crack sections where Africa Flake conjoins with Duct Taped Plum, preparation is key. Thin gear is also essential for the double seams, while the bolted crux sections provide confident security.
This route is a perfect match for climbers with moderate trad experience who want to sharpen crack technique alongside some sustained face moves. The climb reaches 200 feet over two pitches, balancing adventure with solid protection amid the rugged, granite walls of one of Bishop’s hidden pockets. The area’s dry, high desert air and the towering canyon walls create a landscape where every move tangibly connects you to the rock and the surrounding wilderness. Expect granite that demands respect but rewards with a thriller of a climb that stays rooted in tradition — an experience both practical and invigorating.
Rappelling requires attention to rope management and anchor checks for a safe descent. The granite is generally solid, but watch for loose rock near ledges. Afternoon storms can make the granite slick and increase hazard; plan climbs in stable weather windows.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat in Pine Creek Canyon’s sun-exposed walls.
Bring a 60m rope for easy double rappels back to the base.
Thin cams and a full double rack up to mid-sizes will handle the varied crack widths.
Check local weather, as afternoon thunderstorms can sweep in quickly during summer months.
A standard trad rack covers Africa Flake adequately, with doubles of cams recommended for the crack where it merges with Duct Taped Plum. Thin gear is essential for protecting the double seams. Two bolts shield the key 10a face crux moves.
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