"Acoplopse is a technical 5.8 trad climb tucked into Colorado’s Turkey Rocks with a unique height-dependent reach and thin gear placements. It challenges body positioning and offers a careful, committed traverse before rounding a sharp arete crux."
Acoplopse offers a distinct, low-traffic trad climb that demands a blend of precise technique and thoughtful gear placement on Turkey Rocks, part of the South Platte area in Colorado. The route starts from a shared base near the dihedral with 'Live Fire,' then moves right, stepping up on a boulder to access a steadily rising crack and flake system. Its defining feature is a height-sensitive reach that may challenge climbers under 5'9", as the feet and hand holds sit at a distance forcing careful body positioning. Early moves require tiny edging on the crack tips, quickly progressing to a half-pad size hold where a collection of very small cams becomes essential. These tight hand jams and smears prepare you for the crux: a subtle yet committing turn around the arete from east to north, where a well-placed 2-inch cam is crucial before standing up on a delicate hand rail.
The second pitch continues upward through less demanding crack terrain, offering a welcome break after the intense first pitch. Protection here is technical—ranging from thin to very thin gear—so bringing doubles in the smallest cams and stoppers is recommended to confidently secure your line, especially during the committing traverse where retreat or bail options are limited.
Approach trails weave through classic South Platte forest and rock formations, guiding you to Turkey Rocks with modest elevation gain and mostly stable footing. The route’s moderate length of 100 feet over two pitches makes it a solid half-day objective for climbers comfortable on 5.8 trad climbs seeking a lower-traffic venture.
For climbers heading to Acoplopse, timing your ascent during the mild spring or fall months when the rock is cool to touch will improve friction and enjoyment. The wall faces primarily north, so it catches early shade, sparing you the harsh afternoon sun but also keeping the rock crisp in cooler temperatures.
This climb’s specialized nature rewards climbers who come prepared with precise gear and a keen eye for sequences that require body tension and length management. It’s not a crowd-pleaser but a subtle gem for those aiming to refine their trad skills on a route that asks you to balance commitment with careful footwork. After topping out, the descent involves a comfortable rappel from a fixed cord anchor, making for an efficient return that keeps your focus on the experience rather than the exit.
In sum, Acoplopse delivers an engaging, technical trad route that stretches your movement and gear skills in a unique section of Turkey Rocks. With thoughtful preparation and respect for the natural line, climbers will find an inviting test that grows on them with each visit.
Protection is specialized and thin; err on the side of caution when placing gear along the traverse. Watch for loose rock near the start and at the arete. The fixed cord anchor for descent is solid but test before trust.
Be prepared for a height-dependent reach; climbers under 5'9" may find the foot-hold spacing challenging.
Bring a double rack of very small cams through 1" to secure the narrow crack and flake.
Start early to enjoy cooler rock and avoid afternoon sun; the route faces mostly north.
Use clean technique on small edges to maintain balance, especially approaching the arete crux.
Double sets of very small cams and small stoppers from thin to very thin sizes are essential here. Securing the rising traverse requires meticulous placements before moving out of easy reach.
Upload your photos of Acoplopse and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.