Aces, Straights and Flushes is a straightforward trad climb that tests your ability to read the rock and manage protection efficiently. Located on the Magic Wall at Chilkoot Lake, this single pitch route offers a clear face climb that rewards steady moves and solid footwork. Starting out, you’ll find yourself following a clean line to the right of a subtle crack, passing two fixed bolts that serve as confident anchors amid the granite’s textured surface. As you reach the upper section, the route bends left toward the anchors, which provide a secure and comfortable top-out.

The granite here is firm, featuring a mix of face holds and crack edges that demand a balanced approach—strong hands meet careful placements. Protection consists of a pair of bolts reinforced by snug gear placements reaching up to 3 inches in size. This combination invites both newer trad climbers looking to gain experience in gear management and seasoned climbers seeking a no-nonsense pitch with reliable protection.

The approach to the Magic Wall is accessible, situated within the wider Southern Sierra range, just off the trail near Chilkoot Lake. The walls catch the morning sun, warming the rock early in the day but offering shade in the afternoon, making early starts ideal during warmer months. Expect a light breeze sweeping through Shuteye Ridge’s forested surroundings, carrying the scent of pine and fresh earth as you prepare.

While brief, the route promises a solid 5.9 challenge that balances technical skill and thoughtful movement. It doesn’t demand over-the-top athleticism but asks for precise gear placement and confident clipping of bolts on moderately steep terrain. This makes it a valuable outing for climbers looking to sharpen their lead skills without committing to multi-pitch exposure.

Essential gear includes a single rack of traditional protection, emphasizing a range of cams up to 3 inches, complemented by a rope long enough for a safe single-pitch descent. Footwear with good edge sensitivity is essential to maximize the small footholds scattered along the face. Keep hydration handy, especially in warmer seasons, but the tree cover around the trailhead actively cools the area for a comfortable start.

Safety on Aces, Straights and Flushes calls for respect of the fixed hardware and a careful evaluation of gear placements, as the protection is thoughtful but limited. The granite’s texture can vary slightly with localized flakes, so test holds thoroughly and watch for loose rock near the top. Rappel down carefully using the anchored bolts, ensuring solid knot checks and clean rope management before dropping off.

This route shines as an introduction to the Magic Wall’s varied offerings—a single-pitch adventure poised between accessible challenge and technical refinement. Whether you’re building trad confidence or just after a focused, enjoyable climb framed by crisp high Sierra air, Aces, Straights and Flushes provides a precise, rewarding experience carved into the heart of Shuteye Ridge’s granite.