"ABBA is a tight 50-foot trad and top-rope route at Lover’s Leap, characterized by a right-facing dihedral and thoughtful gear placements. Ideal for climbers looking to sharpen skills on a route that blends technical moves with accessible terrain."
At the heart of Colorado’s Lover’s Leap climbing area, ABBA presents a concise yet engaging climb that rewards attentive movement and precise gear placement. Climbing just about 50 feet, this one-pitch trad and top-rope route traces a distinctive right-facing dihedral that leans into a subtle hanging groove. The rock still holds the faint texture of recent cleaning, with nut tool marks visible, lending the stone a raw and honest character that matches the climb’s straightforward but occasionally challenging moves.
The route starts a few feet right of the more crowded Bed and Breakfast, immediately offering a puzzle: a low tricky move that demands a committed approach, especially for leads. The first secure protection sits noticeably above this section, around 15 to 18 feet, which adds a cautious edge to your early climbing decisions. Beyond this initial crux, ABBA opens into a smooth rhythm of liebacks and hand jams that invite confidence, with the wall angling gently left near the top to meet the same anchors as Bed and Breakfast.
ABBA’s key appeal lies in its balance—the holds are decidedly good but far from overly friendly, maintaining a sense of adventure for both newer trad climbers practicing placements and experienced climbers hunting a polished but still grippy challenge. Gear is limited and requires a thoughtful rack; a directional placement with a red Alien and orange Alien stabilizes the top-rope setup well, but leading demands careful selection across a small range of cams and nuts, emphasizing small to medium sizes between #0 TCU and #1 Camalot.
Surrounding ABBA, Lover’s Leap itself frames sprawling views of Golden and the South Platte Valley, where the air carries a whisper of pine and granite. The approach trail is short and accessible from Lookout Mountain Road, making it a practical choice for a focused climbing session. Climbers appreciate that ABBA maintains a slightly cleaner feel than its neighbor Bed and Breakfast, adding just enough texture to keep the rock engaging without overwhelming.
Preparation tips include focusing on lightweight footwear that balances edging support with comfort, as the slabby dihedral occasionally forces technical positioning. Carrying a full complement of cams down to small nuts proves critical for safe, confident leading. Visit in spring and fall for the best temperatures, avoiding overly hot or wet conditions that can dull friction or increase risk. Water and sun protection remain essential on this exposed wall, which catches the afternoon rays but shifts into moderate shade by late afternoon.
Overall, ABBA offers a compact, rewarding trad climb that invites climbers to read the rock carefully and trust gear placements. Whether you’re refreshing trad skills or simply chasing a solid 5.8 outing in a scenic setting, this route delivers a memorable climb that feels like a hidden step aside from the busier paths at Lover’s Leap.
Be cautious around the first 15 feet where gear placement is limited, increasing runout risks on lead. The rock is clean but still fresh, so test holds carefully, and watch for loose flakes near the start. A top-rope setup is safer for less confident leaders.
Start your climb about 5 feet right of Bed and Breakfast to find the dihedral.
Expect a challenging low move that might feel bold on lead due to distant early gear.
Bring a comprehensive rack focusing on small cams and nuts for secure placements.
Aim to climb during spring or fall when temperatures balance grip and comfort.
Top-rope setups work well with directional pieces like a red Alien and orange Alien. Leading requires a focused rack including a #0 TCU, yellow and green Aliens, small cams from red Alien up to #1 Camalot, and finger-sized protection to cover tricky spots below the first gear placement.
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