In the high, rugged reaches of Colorado’s San Juan Mountains, the Guardian’s imposing northeast face becomes a silent stage for climbers pursuing both challenge and homage. “A Prayer to Earl and Valerie” is a demanding tribute to John Joline, a beloved teacher whose passion for climbing was infectious and whose legacy lives on in every climber stepping onto this vertical canvas. This trad-alpine route stretches over 1400 feet of bold, varied terrain, inviting adventurers to test themselves on a long, committed line of corners, flakes, and dihedrals carved into some of the purest rock of the Grenadiers.

From the moment you step over the bergschrund, the mountain claims your focus. The route’s first pitch winds through a tight corner with delicate flakes before angling rightward into ledges and a defining dihedral capped by a challenging roof. The rock demands steady footwork and precise gear placements as the difficulty jumps into the 5.9 range, setting the tone for a sustained push upward.

Pitch two unfolds along a striking dihedral where a hidden ledge conceals the transition to a large crack crack requiring jumbo cams. This section offers a rewarding blend of crack climbing and corner work, calling for both technical skill and mental composure. By pitch three, climbers reach the aptly named “Ledge of Glory,” an expansive ledge breathing with the wind and offering a moment of respite and wide views. Traversing around the arete, the route leads into a series of corners—a playground for those with crack technique and an appetite for varied climbing at 5.8 difficulty.

Pitch four climbs a sharp V-slot that demands a smooth, athletic approach. Moving through this pitch and up the grassy ledges above requires attention, as loose rock poses a natural hazard. The final pitch pushes climbers through an exciting corner past a small overlap before ascending a left-facing dihedral to reach the ridge. From here, the route doesn’t stop; engaging simulclimbing carries you nearly 500 feet over excellent rock all the way to the summit crest of the Guardian’s northeast face. Adventurous spirits may continue beyond, crossing the couloir to stand at the mountain’s true summit.

Preparing for this route means gearing up with a traditional rack doubling from small to #3 cams, plus a single #4, reflecting the varied crack sizes encountered. Rock quality and protection placements are generally solid but require careful selection and experience. This route, rated a sustained 5.9 with some 5.8 sections, feels concise in its cruxes yet demands endurance and patience, delivering an alpine endurance test far beyond a single pitch.

Accessing the climb takes effort and navigational savvy. The approach ventures deep into alpine rock country, where trails give way to rugged talus and steep scree. Plan on a substantial trek to basecamp and route start, combined with weather vigilance—Earl and Valerie, the local weather patrons, hold sway here, turning clear mornings into sudden storms in moments. Descending via the East Ridge requires concentration for 2.5 to 3 hours on tricky terrain, making proper routefinding and daylight management essential.

This climb embodies the spirit of exploration and respect, pushing climbers to engage both physically and mentally. It’s not just a climb but a multi-pitch journey through wilderness that invites reflection on the passion and teaching of a man who inspired many. When the wind bites, and the rock demands precision, remember the libations John offered to the weather gods: water for strength, beer for celebration, and orange juice for endurance. Let them guide your rhythm and keep Earl and Valerie smiling as you ascend.

For those ready to embrace a big wall in high alpine surroundings, this memorial route ranks as a memorable, practical test of skill and heart. It challenges, rewards, and above all, connects you to mountain history lived and passed on in every handhold.