"This five-pitch trad traverse across Area 13 is a playground of slab, crack, and jug climbing, threading through several established routes. Perfect for those craving variety and technical moves, it demands focus and patience amidst a bustling crag environment."
Stretching across Area 13’s rugged limestone walls, "A Danger to Ourselves and Others" offers climbers a refreshing departure from classic vertical routes. This demanding 5-pitch trad climb combines technical slab sequences, intricate traverses, and juggy face climbing, weaving a path through one of Mammoth Lakes’ busiest crags. The route begins on Exqueeze Me, flowing across a patchwork of established lines before topping out on Inyo Face—a journey that feels part puzzle, part endurance test. Each pitch keeps mileage tight, a necessary tactic to manage the constant rope drag from crossing striking aretes and cutting along deep alcoves.
From the first moves, the route invites careful thought and flexible movement. Pitch One challenges climbers with thin slab climbing to reach a belay perched midway up Wild Will’s Arete. The rock feels alive here, cool and textured, compelling you to balance delicately while scanning for holds. Pitch Two shifts emphasis—stem and flake sequences straight up, followed by a rightward traverse that skirts the arete and rounds onto the face. Here, level traversing demands stealth and steady footwork, setting up a bold move onto a sloping ledge.
The cruxes arrive subtly, embedded in the transitions rather than abrupt bouldery moves. Pitch Three leads into an extended slanting crack, perfect for careful finger jams and precise placements, culminating at a roomy ledge with solid anchors. Pitch Four drops slightly before moving right again, offering easier terrain but with a steeper mental focus as the follower faces slightly harder moves.
The final pitch revels in jug hauling—large pockets and juggy rails encourage rhythm and confidence as the line arcs toward the buttress of Inyo Face. The sunlight here shifts as afternoon fades, casting shadows that sharpen the rock's texture. This top-out never feels like a formality; rather, it marks a hard-earned moment to gaze across the sweeping Sierra Eastside, the crisp alpine air urging you to savor the climb’s full spectrum.
This route's popularity creates a communal vibe—most rewarding when tackled midweek or with courtesy toward nearby parties. Rope drag is a constant consideration; the overlaps with multiple other routes demand patience and route awareness. Protection is a hybrid affair: primarily bolts safeguard the moves, with gear placements bridging the gaps. Single rack sizes from .3 to 3, complemented by nuts and alpine draws—half of them extendable—are essential for smooth transitions.
Accessing the climb is straightforward from the well-known Area 13, located just beyond Mammoth Lakes. The approach trail threads through dry, sparse forest and rock-strewn ground, typically a 15–20 minute hike from the parking zone. Time your climb in spring through early fall for the best weather window—avoid busy weekends to relish the route’s complex line with less crowd interference.
In short, "A Danger to Ourselves and Others" blends route-finding, technical slab, and juggy streaks into a rewarding trad traverse. It’s a route that respects the seasoned climber’s craving for variety and challenge, with every pitch offering something fresh to read, climb, and savor.
The route crosses multiple established lines, resulting in complicated rope drag and potential entanglements. Make deliberate decisions when extending draws and double-check gear placements in alcoves. Approach with midweek timing to avoid crowding hazards.
Climb midweek or off-peak hours to avoid congestion and rope entanglement.
Prepare for significant rope drag—keep your rigging efficient with alpine draws.
Wear sticky rubber shoes with solid edging for the thin slab sequences on pitch 1.
Bring enough water and sun protection—the approach offers little shade during midday.
Expect mostly bolts with some gear placements between routes. A standard single rack from .3 to 3, a set of nuts, and about 12 draws—half of which should be extendable alpine draws—are recommended to navigate the overlap of lines and minimize rope drag.
Upload your photos of A Danger to Ourselves and Others and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.